Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
since my switch is working on my m now, i have had a problem with the damn tractor not stalling out after a while. it idles fine but wheni try to drive it around it stalls. i think my carb is clogged. it sat for a long time and i cleaned out the bowl and sprayed alot of carb cleaner in the intake part of the barb. when it starts stalling i can pull the choke half way and it will run. which screw on the botom of the carb do i unscrew to drain the bottom of the carb? I also have taken the screen from the fuel line inlet out and clean that too. it was so embarrasing today having a guest tow my m back to my barn! any thoughts?
could i get away with just removing the bottom half of the carb to clean it out? the carb is connected to the governor and the intake manifold and i would prefer not to mess with the governor if i dont have to ,unless if its an easy thing to do.
All the important places to clean are in the top half of the carburetor, and they're a pain to get to with the carb on the tractor.
It's not difficult to completely remove the carb, a total of two nuts and two screws. You don't touch the governor, just disconnect it at the carb by removing the two slot-headed screws.
The only thing that's slightly tricky when putting it back on is getting the tab to match up with the slot inside the governor-to-carb connection.
i really need some help now. i took the carb off and found that the needle was stuck. i cleaned the needle and tested it a few time to make sure it wasnt going to stick. i put the carb back on and it ran for about 3 minutes just great and then it stalled. i took the carb apart again and i put a basic rebuild kit in it. there was alot of sludge everywhere. well i put everything back together and and the m ran for a minute or two but it still stalled out. the needle isnt sticking, the carb gets pletny of fuel. theres is a very small gas drip comming from the slotted screw that holds the meter in place. i have some questions about the mixture screw, i turned it in and then i backed it off two complete turns, is this right? also there is a needle screw the is on the bottom of the casting that controls fuel intake to the meter. what is the distance that from the slotted head to the brass fitting supposed to be for this screw? how tight is the meter supposed to be in the bottom casting and does it have to be positioned or just placed in its tube? i am going to pull my hair over this!
well went back to the m, backed the fuel adjusting needle (bottom) three turns, the midle screw from the bottom, i think its a air mixture screw, 2 turns and the screw that leasds to the governor 2 turns as well. it only runs now with the choke pulled almost closed. when i open the choke it dies within 10 seconds.
Not trying to be snarky here, but you can't know that the needle is not sticking without X-ray vision... Then again, if the needle was sticking, it wouldn't run at all. Needle sticks on my H, and no amount of choke will keep it running once the bowl goes dry. Tap the carb bowl with a rock, and it runs like a top all day long.
It's definitely a fuel flow problem, though.
For some reason, I'm thinking 4 or 5 turns out for that main needle is the way to go. Ask on the Farmall board over at ytmag.com. Lots of people know the setting right off the top of their heads.
when i took the top part of the carb off, the needle was stuck in the seat. i checked the new needle ,that is is in contact of the float,when the carb was apart and it moved freely unlike the old one. i will try posting this on the ymtag site. thanks!
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests