Farmall M Hydraulics

[Phillip W. Lenke]

I am ready to put 30 wt HD in our M hydrauilic res. How much does it hold, owners manual has nothing on hydraulics.
Thanks Phil

[Bigdog]

Phil - If memory serves - it's 6 quarts.

[RustyFarmall]

Yes, 6 quarts.

[Phillip W. Lenke]

Thanks Guy's
Phil

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Phil, the original manuals stated 30wt non detergent. I once asked Dad about that, and he said that the cups on the older hydraulic cylinders would deteriorate and deform with detergent oil. He stated he learned the hard way. If the cups in your cylinders have been replaced at sometime in the last 25 or so years, I would think H would be ok, but if not, I would stick with non detergent.

[KETCHAM]

Wow must be getting close!!! Kevin

[Phillip W. Lenke]

I replaced the o-rings etc,I did not see any rubber cups in there, I was through it completely.
I used detergent oil , hope it will be OK
You thoughts
I can drain it and use it for the break in if not.
Phil
Ye Kevin i am getting close. waiting on some parts to finish the engine then off to the booth. Then put engine in and start up. The fluids replacement is going to be pricey, 13 gal 90 wt ,8 qts. / oil filter, 6 gal acoolant.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Phil, the cylinders I was referring to were on the real old stuff, such as cultivators the model 30 loader, etc. they used a large rubber piece on the ram not really cupped shaped, but the detergent oil would deform them. If you have newer cylinders that used only o'rings, it is probably ok. Any that have had the piston cups replaced in the last 25 or so years, maybe longer should be ok, and any that are in use have most likely been replaced in that amount of time. The main problem if it occurs, is after time the oil will bypass inside the cylinder. If you should get a chance to talk to George Willer, he can probably provide more info it.

[Phillip W. Lenke]

John:
If I hear right it is any cylinder that may be attached to the tractor not the tractor pump itself
I do not plan to use the hydraulics to much , but if I do it will be for a three point hook up , someday.
Thanks
Phil

[RustyFarmall]

The real beauty of those original belly pumps is that, in a pinch, you could pour in just about any kind of oil that you have handy and it will still function just fine. Using what is recommended is always a good idea, but that hydraulic system will function just fine with any of the modern "hydraulic" oils.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

The real beauty of those original belly pumps is that, in a pinch, you could pour in just about any kind of oil that you have handy and it will still function just fine. Using what is recommended is always a good idea, but that hydraulic system will function just fine with any of the modern "hydraulic" oils.

They were pretty forgiving alright. Ours ran the end of the valve lever spring through the pump, and chewed the pump up pretty good. Still ok in cold weather, and in hot weather we just used heavier oil. Try that with a modern system.

[Jim Becker]

The real beauty of those original belly pumps is that, in a pinch, you could pour in just about any kind of oil that you have handy and it will still function just fine. Using what is recommended is always a good idea, but that hydraulic system will function just fine with any of the modern "hydraulic" oils.

This comment reminds me of a tip. If you are using the remote hydraulics on more than one tractor to operate a single implement, you have a potential of mixing/contaminating fluid between the tractors. The "fix" is to use the same fluid in all tractors, whatever the most stringent requirement is. For most situations, it means using a Hy-Tran equivalent. If you are not going to move equipment between the M and anything else, just go with the basic recommendations already discussed.

[DanR]

I'm still trying to figure out how to put the piston valve lever together. Has anyone ever done this?

[Phillip W. Lenke]

yes I have I will pm you with my phone number
Phil