Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:50 pm
got a parts m at my folks place it has a huge hood and tank with super m painted on the hood(looks original). but it has a distilate tank and has two holes in the hood. i had the tank and hood at the show for sale and there was an intense discussion
at one point over wheter it was a super or a regular m. any help? and how do you remove the shutter crankhandle?
Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:07 pm
According to Guy Fay's data book, and to the parts cd, Super M was available as a dual fuel, so it could have had the dual tanks. Check the serial tag on the left side of bell housing. If a super M it will say SM
Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:19 am
Grampa's SM had the two tanks.
Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:08 am
I would think that a dual fuel Super M would not be a common tractor.
Sun Oct 31, 2010 9:39 am
now you tell me! after i sold parts off it
Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:41 am
Chances are it is a regular M that someone or a dealer repainted many years ago and all they had on hand were super decals. Or perhaps the farmer/dealer wanted to have a "newer" tractor. My grandfather's super A had been repainted and regular A decals applied. Originality wasn't thought of much back then.
Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:04 pm
That same SM was later converted to SMTA
Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:07 pm
no serial tag but the date stamped on the bell housing is 1-10-49. so i'm gonna guess a regular m
Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:29 am
how do you remove the shutter crankhandle?
There is a collar towards the operator ,it is held on with a 1/8 inch roll rin.
Hope this helps
Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:00 pm
i wirewheeled it and found the remains of a pin so i guess i will drill it out
Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:00 pm
try a long thin punch
Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:35 am
What John said, pins usually don't drill out easily.
Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:46 am
If you have not tried it yet , If it is off the tractor or where there is no fear of fire, soak it good with wd 40 or kroil heat up let set for a short while and hit it again with wd or kroil it will suck the oil right in the warm up again and punch it out. it will come loose , just paitence, drilling a roll pin can be tricky it will grab often. and you May damage the hole greatly.
Have removed numerous tough rusted items with this method.
Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:36 am
Phillip W. Lenke wrote:drilling a roll pin can be tricky it will grab often. and you May damage the hole greatly.
That statement is worth repeating. Roll pins are made of really tough material. Your drill bit will drift into the softer surrounding material. I have never found one stuck that badly. If the surrounding part is well backed up, they knock out with a proper sized punch. Getting the right sized punch makes a big difference. Since they are hollow and springy, rust doesn't bind them in place the way it does other fasteners.
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