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m questions

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 6:50 pm
by dirtyred
got a parts m at my folks place it has a huge hood and tank with super m painted on the hood(looks original). but it has a distilate tank and has two holes in the hood. i had the tank and hood at the show for sale and there was an intense discussion :shock:at one point over wheter it was a super or a regular m. any help? and how do you remove the shutter crankhandle?

Re: m questions

Posted: Sat Oct 30, 2010 9:07 pm
by John *.?-!.* cub owner
According to Guy Fay's data book, and to the parts cd, Super M was available as a dual fuel, so it could have had the dual tanks. Check the serial tag on the left side of bell housing. If a super M it will say SM

Re: m questions

Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:19 am
by danovercash
Grampa's SM had the two tanks.

Re: m questions

Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:08 am
by Bigdog
I would think that a dual fuel Super M would not be a common tractor.

Re: m questions

Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 9:39 am
by dirtyred
now you tell me! after i sold parts off it :shock: :lol:

Re: m questions

Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:41 am
by cubbrian
Chances are it is a regular M that someone or a dealer repainted many years ago and all they had on hand were super decals. Or perhaps the farmer/dealer wanted to have a "newer" tractor. My grandfather's super A had been repainted and regular A decals applied. Originality wasn't thought of much back then.

Re: m questions

Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:04 pm
by danovercash
That same SM was later converted to SMTA

Re: m questions

Posted: Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:07 pm
by dirtyred
no serial tag but the date stamped on the bell housing is 1-10-49. so i'm gonna guess a regular m

Re: m questions

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:29 am
by Phillip W. Lenke
how do you remove the shutter crankhandle?
There is a collar towards the operator ,it is held on with a 1/8 inch roll rin.
Image
Hope this helps
Phil

Re: m questions

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:00 pm
by dirtyred
i wirewheeled it and found the remains of a pin so i guess i will drill it out

Re: m questions

Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:00 pm
by John *.?-!.* cub owner
try a long thin punch

Re: m questions

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 6:35 am
by danovercash
What John said, pins usually don't drill out easily.

Re: m questions

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:46 am
by Phillip W. Lenke
If you have not tried it yet , If it is off the tractor or where there is no fear of fire, soak it good with wd 40 or kroil heat up let set for a short while and hit it again with wd or kroil it will suck the oil right in the warm up again and punch it out. it will come loose , just paitence, drilling a roll pin can be tricky it will grab often. and you May damage the hole greatly.
Have removed numerous tough rusted items with this method.
Phil

Re: m questions

Posted: Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:36 am
by Jim Becker
Phillip W. Lenke wrote:drilling a roll pin can be tricky it will grab often. and you May damage the hole greatly.

That statement is worth repeating. Roll pins are made of really tough material. Your drill bit will drift into the softer surrounding material. I have never found one stuck that badly. If the surrounding part is well backed up, they knock out with a proper sized punch. Getting the right sized punch makes a big difference. Since they are hollow and springy, rust doesn't bind them in place the way it does other fasteners.