Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
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Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:09 am
Well the time has come to seriously kickoff the rebuild of my son's 1949 M. The head is off and has been cleaned, it is clear of cracks, and in desperate need of valves. I was able to get all but 3 of the head studs out of the block. Number 2 piston is STILL stuck but I will be seriously messing with that this week. I will be ordering the full rebuild kit from All States Ag Parts in the next week or two. I plan on pulling the engine, stripping as much as possible and delivering it to the machine shop to have the crank and block checked and machined as necessary. I am also planning on decking the head. Can anyone tell me how much the engine weighs? I'm guessing about 400-500 lbs. Also how far should I take the dis-assembly before delivering it to the machine shop and how much should I allow them to reassemble?
I also want to have the block shot blasted for painting..which leads to my next question. Am I better off paining the individual pieces and then assembling the engine or assemble the whole thing and shoot it then? On a grander scale...what is the "order of operations" when you repaint an entire tractor? I am actually considering having the rest of the tractor sand blasted while the engine is off.
p.s. Art I will be contacting you regarding removal of the sleeves.
Sat Jul 14, 2012 10:21 am
Valu-Bilt list the shipping weight of the C248 engine as: short block 440 lbs, long block 490 lbs.
Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:32 pm
I'd paint covers,then whole thing...holes covered.
Nice project!!!! Phil L did one hell of a job on his M.Kevin
Sat Jul 14, 2012 12:42 pm
When I had a Cub engine rebuilt, he cleaned it in a tank, and there wasn't any paint left on it. You may not need to do any paint prep if that is done.
Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:31 pm
if you dont have a machine shop in mind, i can recommend one. He'll order the engine kit and valves as well. probably cost you about the same for the kit and then they will have the parts on hand to do the head and drop the sleeves in. the shop is in Holyoke and does all my machine work.
PM me if you like. art
Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:45 pm
don't try to remove the remaining head studs. they are no doubt the ones into the water jacket and won't be in the way of the sleeve work. the risk of torquing one off is too great.
Mon Aug 13, 2012 5:28 pm
The number 2 piston is free and moving easily in it's cylinder! My son and I spent the better part of today wrenching on his M. We removed the steering shaft to get unrestricted access to the top of the engine. Taking the damn woodruff key out of the shaft took longer than anything else. I removed the rod cap and then trimmed down a 4x4 to fit into the cylinder. One whack with the sledge hammer and it broke loose. I managed to drive it down about 2 inches and was able to clean the cylinder walls with MMO and emery cloth. After about 10 minutes of work the piston was moving freely. We spent the next hour or so removing various external parts in preparation of the engine removal. Hopefully the engine will be in the back of my truck by the weekend.
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions and advice.
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