Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
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Finally found a Farmall MV . 2 miles from my house out of the cane fields. Hoping to do a full restoration on this one. All the high crop parts are there with no welds. Only need 1 front rim, which I have. Not sure what else it needs yet, but I will post as I work on it.
Always wanted one because I grew up hearing about these. My grandfather had an MV and Super MV when they started the cane operation back in the 1940s.
Last edited by LA Eric on Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Good luck, Eric. Looks like a fun project.
Last edited by Bill Hudson on Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
Looks like you might need a steering apparatus too!!
Sweet tractor Eric, keep us in the loop as you get into it!
FCub - LoBoy - Numbered Series Databases
Dang good job Eric. Now if you run across another you better gimmie a call.
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Wow that's beautiful Eric, keep us posted !!!
REMEMBER: Keep it correct or you may face the
Nice find. Enjoy !
Member Chapter 42 IHCC
1970 Farmall Cub
1946 Farmall B
1942 Farmall M
1200 Cub Cadet
Started working on the MV Sunday. First, I put a battery on it and it cranked well and I heard a hit. I guess that is a good sign. I stopped because I am not ready to start it yet.Tried to tow it closer to the shop and discovered that the steering was completely frozen. Took out the grease gun and tried to grease all zerks I could find. The main steering shaft that drops down in the front was frozen. Removed the plate to find about 3-4" of dry greased all caked together. Removed old grease, applied penetrating oil liberally and regreased. Jacked up front end and after working the steering back and forth about 100 times, it finally completely broke loose. Very hard to do with a vice grip pliers as a steering wheel. I will have to replace the steering shaft because I will not be able to put a wheel on it as it is junk. Pulled the fuel tank, washed out, cleaned and reinstalled. Removed and cleaned sediment bowl. Removed air breather assembly and tube and soaked in the parts washer. Boy was it dirty and clogged. Ordered new oil pressure gauge and line because it fell apart in my hands.
Today, I removed the distillate manifold, or what was left of it. There was some sort of nest inside. There was rust in the block in the two holes in the outer sides of the manifold. Polished the surface to prep for the replacement manifold.
Also, as you can see in the photo below, I removed the plate and found a mess of sludge and rust. Is this normal?? I am going to try to clean as best as possible.
Good find, Eric. You are welcome to show it off at DSCF next February. I'm sure you'll have it ready by then.
In the middle of every difficulty lies opportunity. - Albert Einstein
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No broken "V" castings and the tin looks good, I would say you are most of the way there! Keep us posted, looks like a good 'un.
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates
Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.
Getting closer, but I have run into a stuck valve. A minor setback EDIT: Now moving freely. I tried several things though with no luck. Found this on the YT forum and it worked "Remove the spark plug. Get a length of hard plastic rope. Ensure the piston is well down the bore. Feed the rope into the spark plug hole until the bore wont take any more. Spray some lubricant around valve stem. Gently tap the stuck valve stem Use the handle and turn the engine. The rope should compress and push the valve open. You may have to do it a couple of times before its completely free. Make sure you have plenty of rope still outside the hole"
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