Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:49 pm
I'm looking to buy a M or a H. What are the pro'd and cons of each?
This will be cross posted in the H section so I can get both sides!
Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:02 am
One of each. It depends on what you want to do. Cultivating corn with an M will kill you. I have many hours on both. Sometimes the power of the M is nice. The loader on the H would go into the barn. The M was just enough higher it wouldn't. I will say that in both cases larger tires help. Also consider a Super H or M. The difference can be seen or at least with an M. Dad had both an M and a Super M. The H had an M&W kit in it that boosted the power. The next owner who had several H's said he could tell the difference and I had to tell him why. If you don't need row crop look for a wide front although collectors tend to gobble them up since there weren't very many. The H will do a lot of work. The M is really too big for most "farms" of less than 100 acres. Just my opinion. Vern
Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:17 am
I perfer the super to a regular but it's about the price and availability. If I had to choose and still be cheap a super MDTA would be nice! My dad has a M and I've used that at the farm for logging and mowing so I'm kind of familiar with the mechanics.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:30 am
I'd say the most important information needed to answer your question, is... What do you intend to use it for?
Sat Jul 26, 2014 10:00 am
For work or for show? This is my opinion but I think an H is too small to be a big tractor, and too big to be a small tractor. All things being equal I would go with a M for work. For show the H is lighter so it's a little easier to haul, but to tell the truth a M always grabs my attention at a show faster than an H!
Sat Jul 26, 2014 4:29 pm
Everything that my cub won't do. I won't be tilling or planting, well most likely. Just the added power of plowing or pulling logs and trailers. Just an overall workhorse. Prices around here overlap. 1300-3000 for an H and 1800 to 5000 for a top end M.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 4:33 pm
It would be for work only. As long as the tin is straight and everything works well with good tires and I would be happy. I would perfer an M or super M but I have never worked with an H or super H before so I wasn't sure of the power restrictions and size differences of the H compared to the M.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 4:44 pm
Above link. You can look up the specifications of the tractors in question.
Suggest listing the tasks you want the tractor to do, physical size, and the tractor's features. Once you have the desires listed, --- research.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 6:57 pm
If you're just looking for raw power for pulling/plowing I'd just get the M
Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:16 pm
I don't have experience with The H, however I do with the M and IMHO they are a very nice tractor.
I have a1946 M that I bought in Tn. From fellow forum member Dan R.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 10:32 pm
Which if any of the tractors have a live pto?
Sat Jul 26, 2014 10:42 pm
I believe they are not live. But I dont know for sure.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 11:00 pm
First factory live PTO Farmall was the Super MTA. You might get lucky and find one with the M&W hand clutch which will give you live PTO.
Sat Jul 26, 2014 11:24 pm
1953 Farmall Super M Stage II with M&W Clutch,Throttle,Piston's Charlyon power steering and a Swartz Wide front
Sun Jul 27, 2014 6:20 am
The M&W so called hand clutch is not a true clutch. You cannot shift gears with it, you must use the foot clutch. The M&W merely disengages the left wheel. This is like the Allis W45 I believe. Allis made a small round baler in the 50's and stopping forward motion was necessary to discharge the bale. The hydraulics are not live either on the M nor H. Generally a hyd pump from a later model which fits in the ignition drive ahead of the distributor will fit. Super M's hyd is this way and I have been told the last few M's were this way. Aftermarket three point hitches are available. Dad had a hyd block which gave two way hyd to the S-M. We generally parked the M (and S-M) for the winter it was such a bear to start. It's starter was usually a pull by the H. Two batteries in parallel helps but a 12 volt conversion is the real answer. The H always started but being a mag sparked engine it had to barely turn over. But hey, now that we have your M almost up to date why not get a 406 to start with?
Note the extra hyds on this one but they don't appear to be live. It is for sale and has trip loader, box scraper and three point hitch. No fenders or wheel weights are visible. I won't go into my rant about operating tractors without fenders. They can easily be made to set wide if you don't intend to move the wheels all the way in. I would be very wary of this tractor however. It has been for sale forever. http://battlecreek.craigslist.org/grd/4577181528.html
Remember also that like most tractors the H & the M evolved during production. Thus a 51 M would have more power than a distillate burning 39 if the engine hasn't been changed. If there is a small tank ahead of the main tank or as often the case a hole in the hood ahead of the tank it was built as a distallate burner.. Dad's H was a 39 originally built to burn distillate which was one reason for putting the M&W conversion in it.
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