Which would you choose? M or H?

Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963

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Geezer
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Geezer » Sun Jul 27, 2014 10:09 am

I have always been told tractors (like cars) vary in price by region, but $5k for a M it better be well equiped, live hydraulics and the works. H easier to mount and dismount. I would recommend you scan your area for a 300. Bout same size as h but many addtional features. Good luck.


offrink wrote:Everything that my cub won't do. I won't be tilling or planting, well most likely. Just the added power of plowing or pulling logs and trailers. Just an overall workhorse. Prices around here overlap. 1300-3000 for an H and 1800 to 5000 for a top end M.

offrink
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby offrink » Sun Jul 27, 2014 1:26 pm

That was a high M. I think it was a a-MDTA. Most of the M's were in the 2-3,000 range.

Has anyone any info on a SW6TA?

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Brendan In NC
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Tractors Owned: 1964 Farmall Cub Red Square Nose # 223883 one of 2300 built before they switch to Yellow and White. Tractor was nicknamed Oscar by my Grandma and the lil feller is pretty much Tight as can be no wear any where other than that paint being awful! HaHa

1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Just a Clean Strong run of the mill Farmall 140 with very little Wear.

Also have a bit of equipment
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Brendan In NC » Sun Jul 27, 2014 3:17 pm

v w wrote:The M&W so called hand clutch is not a true clutch. You cannot shift gears with it, you must use the foot clutch. The M&W merely disengages the left wheel. This is like the Allis W45 I believe. Allis made a small round baler in the 50's and stopping forward motion was necessary to discharge the bale. The hydraulics are not live either on the M nor H. Generally a hyd pump from a later model which fits in the ignition drive ahead of the distributor will fit. Super M's hyd is this way and I have been told the last few M's were this way. Aftermarket three point hitches are available. Dad had a hyd block which gave two way hyd to the S-M. We generally parked the M (and S-M) for the winter it was such a bear to start. It's starter was usually a pull by the H. Two batteries in parallel helps but a 12 volt conversion is the real answer. The H always started but being a mag sparked engine it had to barely turn over. But hey, now that we have your M almost up to date why not get a 406 to start with? :D
Image
Note the extra hyds on this one but they don't appear to be live. It is for sale and has trip loader, box scraper and three point hitch. No fenders or wheel weights are visible. I won't go into my rant about operating tractors without fenders. They can easily be made to set wide if you don't intend to move the wheels all the way in. I would be very wary of this tractor however. It has been for sale forever.
http://battlecreek.craigslist.org/grd/4577181528.html
Remember also that like most tractors the H & the M evolved during production. Thus a 51 M would have more power than a distillate burning 39 if the engine hasn't been changed. If there is a small tank ahead of the main tank or as often the case a hole in the hood ahead of the tank it was built as a distallate burner.. Dad's H was a 39 originally built to burn distillate which was one reason for putting the M&W conversion in it.
Vern
Like the Glasspack muffler :wink: Lol
Tractors are like watermelons..Eat the red and throw away the green!!
Brendan Dixon Greenville NC
1964 Farmall Cub #223883
1964 Farmall 140 #27512
Tractorguy140, YouTube

offrink
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby offrink » Mon Jul 28, 2014 10:40 am

Does anyone know about a SW6TA? One looks in good shape around me.

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Super A
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Super A » Tue Jul 29, 2014 5:45 am

It's the standard tread version of the Super MTA.

Al
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates

Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.

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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Matt Kirsch » Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:45 am

Yes, that's all it is. Fairly rare, too.

I wouldn't turn my nose up at one from a collector standpoint, but for usability, I'd rather have the SMTA. Dad has an early W-400 which is the same basic tractor as the SW6TA, and it's tough to drive for me. The pedals are up high and require good abs.

offrink
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby offrink » Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:13 pm

The sw6ta is stated that it starts easy and runs great. Only issue is that the paint is pink from fading and it's $3500. But as I said in a previous that's on the high side of regular M's.

What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.

offrink
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby offrink » Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:13 pm

The sw6ta is stated that it starts easy and runs great. Only issue is that the paint is pink from fading and it's $3500. But as I said in a previous that's on the high side of regular M's.

What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.

Ida Red
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Ida Red » Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:38 pm

If you are using a CUB a Super H would do a good lot of work.
How much money will the little woman let you spend?
If you just hit the jackpot, buy both a Super H & SuperM!
IHC made a quality machine and was leader of the pack.Let's keep them running,

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Super A
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White demo Super A-"Ol Whitey"
1950 Super A "Old Ugly"
1954 Super A-1
856
Buncha other junk
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Super A » Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:49 am

offrink wrote:
What do you mean by standard tread? The one I see has a wide stance in the front.


Basically low to the ground with a wide front end and mostly non-adjustable tread width.

Al
White Demo Super A Restoration Updates

Let us pray for farmers and all who prepare the soil for planting, that the seeds they sow may lead to a bountiful harvest.

offrink
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby offrink » Wed Jul 30, 2014 11:04 am

Al is it all the way in or out or in the middle compared to the standard M?

Price to spend is hopefully in the $2500 range but I see lots of H 's in the $1500 range. Let's just say if it's in excellent near perfect condition SMDTA for 5k I could pull it off.

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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Matt Kirsch » Wed Jul 30, 2014 12:29 pm

The SW6TA is set quite narrow.

Dad's W-400, which is the next generation and nearly identical mechanically, fits perfectly down 30" rows of corn.

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Radec Aksarben
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Radec Aksarben » Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:00 am

If you're plowing/disking, get an M. My M will dig itself to China before it ever stalls. If you are going to run a loader get something newer with factory power steering/ live power, unless it won't be used much. An 806 with 56 series shift is an awesome loader. Otherwise an M is better than the H for a loader for sure, it's heavier and wider.

H's are waaaay easier to maneuver in small spaces and mow with. My brother's H is like heaven when sickle mowing at his place instead of using my M at my place. Making quick square turns with no power steering is a bear.

I have live hydraulics on mine. We put a super style pump ahead of the distributor. If you do the same, make darn sure you get the heavier cam shaft gear that drives the distributor gear or you'll shred the lighter cam gear - That's what happened to us. If you do that you can shell out the belly pump and use it as a reservoir. I think it looks pretty clean that way. I kept the original style control rod too.

I mostly mow with my M. If I had to do it again, I think I might get an H. (I'm never giving up this M though :D )

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Radec Aksarben
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'51 International I-9 - rusty yellow
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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby Radec Aksarben » Mon Aug 04, 2014 10:11 am

Here is a picture of the current live hydraulic set up.

Image

Another thing: If ever plan on going on a tractor drive with it, the H burns around 8 gal per 70 miles at ~12 mph and my M does maybe 10 gal.

This tractor cost $1750 in 2005 with paint, excellent mechanically except NO brakes. It has factory disks.

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Re: Which would you choose? M or H?

Postby SONNY » Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:45 pm

Unless the M has ps,--its a real pig to drive hard to get on/off! H not much better! for $2500 you could get a nice 504 lpto ,ps, torque amp and 3-pt hitch!---shop around for a more modern model! thanks; sonny


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