This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link:
Privacy Policy

NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.

M info needed

Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450 & 560 Tractors, 1939-1963
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
JBall8019
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
Location: Lordstown, Ohio

M info needed

Postby JBall8019 » Sun Oct 02, 2005 8:00 pm

Hello All,
theres a farmall super m fianlly in my barn :D it needs some work but i am excited about getting to bush hog around my place. is there any where online where i can get info for the m for maintenane? I figure i should ask here first!.
Thanks
John
ps Theres a custom made 3 pt hitch on it , would any body be interested in plans/pics of it?

SPONSOR AD

Sponsor



Sponsor
 

User avatar
Bigdog
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 24144
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
Zip Code: 43113
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH, Circleville
Contact:

Postby Bigdog » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:11 am

John, congrats on the super M! I don't know of a site dedicated specifically for them but I would think that the Red Power forum would be a good place to start.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

Image

http://www.cubtug.com

JBall8019
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
Location: Lordstown, Ohio

Postby JBall8019 » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:52 am

Thanks BD,
I can see why smaller tractors are selling better. This M is a big tractor and its a pain in the rear to get shipped anywhere! this one was loaded on a large flatbed tow truck from PA. (9' wide bed) Well so far i havent found anything good yet for the maintenance, I guess Rudis site has spoiled me. I will check out red power after work.
John

Matt Kirsch
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 4947
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:04 pm
Zip Code: 14559
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: Rochester, NY

Postby Matt Kirsch » Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:31 am

Yep, nothing out there that's as dedicated as Rudi's site for any other tractor that I know of. You're just gonna have to break down and buy the manuals for it from binderbooks.com, or ebay.

Really, there are no surprises as far as maintenance. It's just like a big Cub as far as that goes.

JBall8019
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
Location: Lordstown, Ohio

Postby JBall8019 » Mon Oct 03, 2005 1:44 pm

Damn, i was hoping i wouldnt have to get the books. the ones i bought for the cub were overpriced in my opinion, expect for the shop manual. I will be changing the oil today, and i was wondering if the place to add new oil is at the right front and is connected to the distributor.
Thanks
john

User avatar
Bigdog
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 24144
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
Zip Code: 43113
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH, Circleville
Contact:

Postby Bigdog » Mon Oct 03, 2005 2:58 pm

John, the cap resembles a huge wingnut on the right front. Just spin it off and that's where you add the oil.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

Image

http://www.cubtug.com

WKPoor
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby WKPoor » Mon Oct 03, 2005 4:41 pm

Case IH has all the manuals. You'll have to order them up. I can't remember the price but its either that or take you chances on Epay.

User avatar
Bigdog
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 24144
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
Zip Code: 43113
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH, Circleville
Contact:

Postby Bigdog » Mon Oct 03, 2005 5:43 pm

Re: the manuals - I have always found them to be a wise and justified investment. They will save you more than their cost over time.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

Image

http://www.cubtug.com

WKPoor
10+ Years
10+ Years

Postby WKPoor » Mon Oct 03, 2005 5:58 pm

John, you mentioned changing the oil today. If you have presumably an old M original engine you've just entered the great debate zone about which oil to use. Old tractors spent most or all of their life running on non-detergent oil (sludge city) is most likely what you'll find. When you remove the filter cap you'll know if your engine is heavily sludged. Some say contiue with the non-detergent, others say switch to detergent. I don't have an answer either way but you will need to decide how your going to operate from this point further. Fully de-sludging may not ocurr until rebuild if its real bad. If this tractor has sat a long time with heavy sludge be on the lookout for trouble. Oil passages could be plugged. Just a heads up.

JBall8019
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2004 6:40 pm
Location: Lordstown, Ohio

Postby JBall8019 » Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:10 am

Bill, I will be going with 30 wt oil for right now, the tractor hasnt been started in 4 years or so. The engine was rebuilt and i didnt notice any sludge build up like i found in my cub. I have started using synthetic oil in the cub for the past year and i have noticed better starts and much less oil smoke comming from the breather. My neighbor has an IT shop manual so i hope it will be of some use, and i wholly agree with you BD about the investment of the manuals. I like this M alot its such a monster compared to my cub :)
John

dhermesc
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 281
Joined: Wed Aug 31, 2005 10:17 am
Location: Wamego Kansas

Postby dhermesc » Thu Oct 27, 2005 7:46 am

Go here:



http://www.ytmag.com/farmall/wwwboard1.html


Lot of good information on Farmalls and several knowledgeable posters.

If it were my tractor I'd pull the oil pan and the valve cover and see what I had. If the tractor has been switched to detergenated oil in the past couple (or ten) years the filter assembly could appear "clean". But as I found on my 350 a massive deposit could be waiting in the oil pan for you. Pulling the valve cover give you a chance to see if there are any deposits up top and you can reset the valve lash.
Freedom is for those that claim it.

'Country' Elliott
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 2575
Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 5:25 am
Zip Code: 37774
Tractors Owned: 1948 McCormick-Deering Farmall Cub
152 Disc Plow & Flat Belt Pulley
Brinly #8 Moldboard Plow
1971 JD 112 Garden Tractor
1928 Economy Hit & Miss Engine
1927 David Bradley "Little Wonder" Feed Grinder
1 A.H. Patch Corn Shellers
1 A.H. Patch #1 Grist Mill
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Loudon (near Knoxville)

Postby 'Country' Elliott » Sat Oct 29, 2005 3:25 am

Hey John...I owned a 1946 McCormick-Deering Farmall "M" for years and did a lot of work on it. I agree that the VERY FIRST thing you need to do is drop the oil pan and give it a thorough cleaning...be sure to clean the the screen on the oil pick-up Flowto. It actualy sucks up the oil from the top of the oil pan so all heavier debris sinks to the bottom of the pan. Replace the oil filter too, as well as the pan gasket. BEST WISHES for you and your NEW Farmall Super "M". :wink:
Last edited by 'Country' Elliott on Sun Oct 30, 2005 4:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
"Save The Possums...Collect The Whole Set"
"Tennessee Sun-Dried Possum...Heaven In A Can"

User avatar
Rudi
Cub Pro
Cub Pro
Posts: 28706
Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
Zip Code: E1A7J3
Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger
Circle of Safety: Y
Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
Contact:

Postby Rudi » Sat Oct 29, 2005 6:53 am

Guys:

Thanks for the kinds words, they are appreciated, both by the generous members of our community who have supplied many of the manuals, and by me too.... :shock: :lol: :D

Gonna reiterate about the manuals on the server. They were never meant to replace or negate the need to ACTUALLY BUY a manual. They are there for the edification of our fellow Cubbers, and as a resource in determining which particular manual one might want or need.

It has always been my expectation that everyone would actually buy the manuals (usually as they can afford them) in a suitable time frame. Otherwise, BB might get upset a tad, and I don't want that....
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship


Wireharness
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 83
Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2003 8:29 am
Location: Iowa

Postby Wireharness » Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:11 am

The best place to get manuals and parts books is Binder Books .com.

They have all original covers and clear pages. All of the other ones I have seen are reproduced by photo copy and are not clear.

Binder uses all original books for there copies.

An M parts book will run 25.00 to 30.00.

The ones you get from Case-IH are also photo copies.


Return to “Farmall M, Super M, 400, 450, & 560”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests