125 w/ an electrical problem...maybe???

[chickenfarmer]

Hey guys... I have a 125 that is in the process of being restored, while still using it for odd tasks and mowing. Couple of issues that I am having...

1. The charge indicator shows a slight discharge while running.. Am I correct in saying that the starter/generator is not working correctly?
2. After about 10-15 mins of running, it will quit. I let it sit for a few minutes and then it fires back up. Am I having a battery issue, or a coil issue or what?
3. It will only start/run on full choke, and when the tractor is off, fuel runs out of the carb like the float is stuck, but both it and the needle are working as they should...at least the best I can tell.

Any help is appreciated and anything I can tell you to describe things further please ask. Thanks guys. -Josh

[gitractorman]

Well, sounds like you have a couple of issues.
First, charging: Could be a bad battery, bad generator, or bad voltage regulator. I would pull the battery and have it load tested first. If that's ok, I would next check the voltage output while running at full throttle. You should be getting around 13 volts output to the battery. Unfortunately, at this point, if it's not the battery, I would pull the voltage regulator and starter generator, and look up a local armature shop or automotive electrical shop. In Niagara Falls there is a great place that I use, they charge me nothing to check the equipment, and the last time I had a starter/generator rebuilt I think it was $75.

The choke issue is fuel related, but can be several things. Strainer on the fuel bowl could be plugged, preventing full fuel flow. Someone could have installed an in-line fuel filter that's plugged, etc. Although you say that fuel is running out carb when the motor is off. That means that the float is not adjusted properly and/or the needle valve is not seating properly. Very common to get a piece of crud up in the seat of the needle valve. You've got to tear it down and use air, pipe cleaner, parts cleaner, tooth pick, wire, etc., to get the valve seat cleaned up, then make sure to adjust the float properly.

As I said, lots of issues. Sorry to not be of more help.

[chickenfarmer]

Thanks for some ideas. I am fairly sure the battery is ok. It is fairly new and has been taken care of. Is there a bench test I can do for the generator and/or voltage regulator? The fuel issue frustrates me because the inside of my tank is spotless, I have new fuel line and have cleaned the carb numerous times. Do you think an inline filter would help any or is it just overkill. I never find any obvious debris but like you say, it could be just the slightest piece of crud.

[OliverFarmall]

After you get the electric checked out as ok and if it still dies in 10 to 15 minutes it could be the valves need readjusted. They'll start fine when cold, but when operating for 10 minutes or so the exhaust valve has expanded enough from heat that it won't open correctly and thereby the tractor just dies. If you attempt to restart, it won't crank like the batteries dead or if it does it does so extremely slow and hard and won't start. If you wait 45 minutes to an hour and go back and try to start it it will start up like normal and nothing is wrong...so you think you have a fuel delivery problem that worked itselfout, but then it does it again in 10 minutes...

[voltage regulator]

I agree. Sounds like a de-carbon the head is in order. A lot of times carbon deposits get in between the exhaust valve and the valve don't seat. Temp. sounds like the k301 is getting hot. You have not experienced a dead battery? Some times the amp gage starts to go bad. Other times it could be a voltage regulator adjustment. A volt meter is much better to have on a tractor. If you update, I can try to look information about this problem.

[chickenfarmer]

Ok guys here is an update.

The float has the smallest of cracks in it letting fuel get in and making it heavy so it would not rise. I dont know why but I never thought to hold two of them together and feel for a difference. So I put on a spare and now that is fixed. It also ran for about 35 mins non stop without quitting so maybe the excess of fuel was choking it out making it quit after 10 mins. The amp gage is still showing a discharge though, still not sure what is causing it. I will be working on some of the suggestions above this weekend. The battery seems weak, but it always has enough in it to crank enough to start, but just barely. New battery is in order I think.

[BigBill]

First check the wire harness for bare wires were the bends are. Then clean the contacts in the regulator. And make sure all your wire connections are clean. Clean the battery cables/connections too. If you have replacement battery terminals take them apart and clean them too. Pull the belt on the S/G and turn it by hand to see if it makes any noises. Then run it with power with the belt off to clean the armature then but the belt back on.