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Second question: reversed hydro lift lines

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brider
10+ Years
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Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:57 pm
Location: New Haven, CT

Second question: reversed hydro lift lines

Postby brider » Mon Nov 21, 2005 4:03 pm

I also discovered that when I PUSH on my lift lever, the deck raises, and when I PULL, it lowers.

Is it possible the PO reversed some hyd lines, and if so which ones, and is it hard to break them and re-attach properly?

Thanks!
Cub Cadet 1450

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Paul B
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2338
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
Zip Code: 40218
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: KY, Louisville

Postby Paul B » Mon Nov 21, 2005 9:30 pm

The hydraulic hoses may be connected to the wrong ports on the control valve.. Try switching them and see if that corrects the problem. The degree of dificulty depends on your mechanical ability - what may be easy for some could be hard for others. The valve is located in close quarters under the dash, and you will need to remove the fuel tank and rear hood support to gain access to it.

brider
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:57 pm
Location: New Haven, CT

Postby brider » Mon Nov 21, 2005 10:08 pm

I've removed the gas tank and hood support a half dozen times already. Does it require any special tools, or will open/box -end wrenches do? I've worked on brake systems, but not hydro units like this. Do I need to bleed anything afterwards?
Cub Cadet 1450

Paul B
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2338
Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2004 6:12 pm
Zip Code: 40218
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: KY, Louisville

Postby Paul B » Mon Nov 21, 2005 11:36 pm

Open end wrenches should work, flare nut wrench would be better and not as apt to round off the fittings. The system is self bleeding - just cycle it through a few times. If you loose/spill much fluid during the process, be sure to check the fluid level of the transaxle when you are done and top it off with Hy-Tran (the fill plug in the rear end cover). If you are unsure about the condition of the fluid, this would be a good time to change it and the filter, and be sure to use a filter for hydraulic systems and not an oil filter that fits - the two are different internally and an oil filter will cause problems. If you have never changed the fluid on a hydro, you drain it by removing the rear cover, but have a catch pan in place because when the cover is popped loose you will get a flood of hydraulic fluid - 7 quarts worth, all at once. Clean out the inside of any brownish waxy junk, which is actually water that has been absorbed by the Hy-Tran and why I use Hy-Tran, and refill with about 14 pints/ 7 quarts, depending on how much is still in the system, of new fluid.

brider
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 1:57 pm
Location: New Haven, CT

Postby brider » Tue Nov 22, 2005 8:09 am

Thanks, sounds like as long as I can get to the fittings, I'm good.

I drained/replaced the fluid after I picked it up, and before I ran it. I was suprised at how good the fluid looked compared to how bad the tractor looked.

Thanks! Sounds like you know your Cubs, maybe you'll want to post your $.02 on my NEXT question regarding the release valves...
Cub Cadet 1450


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