model 73 and snowthrower compatability

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Postby wdeturck » Sat Mar 04, 2006 8:50 am

Compression on a cylinder should be between 100 & 120 PSI. On the Kohler engines they have a compression release so not many people check compression. When you have a bad engine it will be hard to start, smoke & make strange noises. The way to check compression on the kohler engine is to get a piece of rope and wrap the wrong way on the flywheel pulley and turn the engine backwards and you will get the compression reading on a good gage that screws into the sparkplug hole.
The Geezer from which crashed and is now Cub Cadet Collectors.

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Postby Paul B » Sat Mar 04, 2006 9:29 am

These Kohler engines have an automatic compression release and it is difficult to get an accurate compression reading. The Kohler manual says "to check the condition of the combustion chamber and related mechanisms, physical inspection and a crankcase vacuum test are recommended". A manometer is used for the crankcase vacuum test, which you probably don't have, and may not know how to use it or read it.

SO. Assuming you do not want to tear the engines down to check them, I would run them and listen for knocks or rattles they may have that shouldn't be there, look for evidence of "blow-by" out of the crankcase breather (oil residue coming out of the retangle plate under the carburetor), oil smoke on engine start-up (not unusual), oil smoke while running, etc, etc, and try to make a decision from that. When listening for knocks keep in mind that the PTO clutch on the front of the engine will knock or rattle if the 3 little anti-ratttle springs are missing, as will the tractor clutch rattle if the 3 holes in the disc that the clutch drive pins fit in, are worn. You can move these two clutches by hand to hear what the noises they make sound like but be sure the engine IS NOT RUNNING when you do so

For snowblower use, I would keep the one with the creeper, provided the creeper is good, even if it requires swaping parts to assemble the best running (and maybe better looking) tractor from the two.

Yes, the IH wheel weights for the rear wheels of a Cub Cadet (same weight as the Cub front wheel weight) normally sell in the $100 and over range. I don't know whether the Cub Cadet drove the price of the Cub weights up, or if the Cub drove the price of the Cub Cadet weights up :lol

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Postby Findoggy » Sat Mar 04, 2006 10:01 am

Thanks for the reply. My current tractor runs very well (I think) and smokes only on start up if left inactive for prolonged periods of time (ie. a week or more), why would that be? My front PTO clutch does rattle a little as you suggested it might, but if that is normal, then I am ok with it. I have to go see this other tractor next week, so I will see what kind of shape it is in then. I was, however, planning on doing just as you suggested, and piecing together a nicer looking and running tractor from the two. I'm sure that at least the mower will be in better shape than my current deck, because mine is rusted and rotted, although it does work well. I can't believe how expensive wheel weights are...looks like I may be fabricating a bracket and homemade weights of some kind. Thanks for the help, and have a great weekend. I can't wait until next Saturday when I get to go look at this tractor!!!!

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