Bringing a Cub Cadet 1864 back to life...

[TractorLarry]

Hello all. Interesting forum here. Proves you can find anything on the 'net

My sister is giving me a Cub Cadet model 1864 Garden Tractor.

It was purchased new in 1995, was used a few years, then put in storage in their climate-controlled garage.

Last time I saw it the thing looked like it just came off the showroom floor, and I'm pretty sure it has well under 100 hours on it.

Now, here's the rub. It's been sitting there, unused, for some 5 years.

I know that what I do now to prep it for re-animation will determine whether it runs for 10 minutes, or 10 years, so I wanted to get some idea's before turning the key.

Obviously I will be changing the oil and oil filter, and changing the plugs. I'll probably also hit the cylinders with a blast of fogging oil just in case there is some surface rust in the cylinders, and will spin it over a few times with the plug wires disconnected.

Speaking of oil, I use Briggs & Stratton 10w40 synthetic in all of my other stuff (generator, snow blower, pressure washer, push mower, etc...). However the Kohler engine manual for this model indicates that 10w40 synthetic is only good up to 40deg farenheit. Is that a typo? Should it actually say 40deg cent? Sounds kinda ridiculous that synthetic would only be good up to 40deg farenheit.

I also have no doubt I'll have to charge the battery, or maybe even replace it.

Now, is there anything else I should do?

How about the mower deck?

I haven't got the tractor/manuals yet so I'm not sure where there are grease fittings, etc...

Once it's running, and I KNOW for sure I have something to work with, I plan on changing ALL of the fluids (Hydro and whatever else there is) so I'm starting from a known state.

Any known anomolies with this model? Has it been a good one? Oddly, I can't find much info on the 'net about it.

Thanks

-Larry

[wdeturck]

I would just get it started to see how it runs. They are usually pushed into a corner because something happened to it and if you may spend the time and money and find it's expensive to fix. I'm in to old Cubs and don't do much of any thing other then turn them over(PB Blaster would probably be better to remove rust when you turn it over). I just drain the old gas out and add enough new gas for it to run and try to start them with my battery pack. If it doesnt make an attempt to start I pull the spark plug out(check the gap and put your thumb over the plug hole to see if it has compression). No compression is a major problem but on a Kohler it can be a stuck exhaust valve. I then shoot gas in the spark plug hole and see if it will putt. Get something to check the spark and make sure you have spark. No spark can be points or coil. If it is going to run you should have got signs of life. I only use 30 wt oil in all my cubs as they made 40 years running that way. If it will only run on the gas in the plug the carb must be taken off and cleaned. I also eliminate all the safety switches and key switches(eliminate wiring problems) by running a wire to the + on the coil and jump right to the starter. If it's a hydro and think it may start in gear just jack up one wheel. Gear drives you know when it's in neutral. The deck should still turn with the old belts if not broken and listeh for unusal noises as sitting dosen't do much to the decks,

[TractorLarry]

Yeah, something happened allright. Divorce and sale of the lot that it used to mow

She knows of no issues with it when it was parked.

Thanks for the tips!

-Larry

[TractorLarry]

You think there's any chance the battery is still servicable? Just top off with distilled water?

I haven't found any info on this specific model, but it seems tractors in this class use a 12v Battery with around 235CCA. Sound about right?

Assuming she runs, any reason to not just pick up a 12v battery around that CCA at sears or something?

-Larry

[Rudi]

Larry:

I am no genious at Cub Cadets... but, it would seem to me, that if it is a 12 volt system.. boost it with your car/truck.. save a few scheckles on a new battery.. then check the load and see how good the cells are.. you may not need a new battery, it just may need a real good charge. If the battery is toast, then most of the Lawn and Garden tractor batteries are pretty inexpensive..

I used to boost my 12 volt Craftsman whenever I would forget and leave the key on or the lights yeah, I know....

There are lots of Cub guru's around here, and although the main interest is in the IH Cub Cadets, many have the CCC and the MTD models as well. They know their stuff.. these guys are really knowledgeable

Oh, to the forums and to the world of Cubs and Cub Cadets

[Bermuda Ken]

The only item that MAY be bad is the magento magnets. They can start to rust over time.

I would run it and run it some more!!!! The V-twins are awesome engines!!!

[wdeturck]

I use the $15 from Wall Mart but I did get a battery that ended up being marked with the + & - marked wrong(I don't think it got charged backwards but that can happen also). A cub Cadet with a S/G doesn't care about battery polarity so the battery was in the tractor for almost a year till I found it when I tried to connect my battery charger to it when it wouldn't start in the spring? I discharged the battery completely and tried to recharge wit the + &- on the marked posts and it wouldn't take a charge. I had the reciet but since they pro-rate the battery after 90 days they didn't want to give me a new battery(you try to explain this to a women at Customer service and the young kid in charge of automotive dept) but I made so much commotion that they gave me a new $15 battery. I don't run mine in the winter but may start them on warm days so I get at least 2 years out of a battery.

I see from Ken's post that this tractor doesn't use a coil and on these engines I open the ground wire to the magneto to check spark and eliminate wiring problems.

[TractorLarry]

Thanks for the input guys!

I'm hoping it is delivered before this weekend, then I can really dig in

-Larry