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Deck Rust

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TractorLarry
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Deck Rust

Postby TractorLarry » Mon Aug 14, 2006 1:35 pm

Deck rust seems to be something no one can escape. I've seen it on just about every tractor I've seen, even newer one's.

Even mine has a bit around the outer lip (where it forms a "U") and around the center pulley. And it's never been stored outside. It will be now, but covered.

Is this something that should be bothered with, or is it just gonna be that way?

I had an idea here. I suspect it's not totally original and someone else has already tried it.

I was thinking of cleaning the outer channel out, wire brush the rust out, and then lay a coat of that rubberized truck-bed stuff that you can get by the can. You know, that gritty non-skid ruberized stuff.

Not the whole deck. Say, about a 2" stripe all around, from the bottom of the deck, over the lip, and down into that "U" shaped channel, and then up the body of the deck about 2".

Anyone used this on the underside?

It's pretty tough stuff. Much tougher than paint.

I thought about powder coating, but that would probably cost a fortune.

-Larry

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Jim Becker
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Postby Jim Becker » Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:47 pm

I think that stuff will have the same problems paint has. That is, if you don't get the rust totally killed, it will continue under the coating. The additinal catch is that the couding is tough enough that it may stay in place with rust under it and you won't know it in time to deal with the new rust. If you want to try it, you probably should pretreat the area with something like Extend.

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Postby wdeturck » Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:10 pm

That paint that kills rust(it's white and turns black on the rust} might be the best thing to use on those areas and then paint the underside with slip late paint and it will be easy to wash off. THe acid in the grass makes the rust.
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TractorLarry
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Postby TractorLarry » Wed Aug 16, 2006 9:39 am

Darn Alien grass :)

-Larry

wdeturck wrote:That paint that kills rust(it's white and turns black on the rust} might be the best thing to use on those areas and then paint the underside with slip late paint and it will be easy to wash off. THe acid in the grass makes the rust.

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Postby Ritter107 » Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:33 pm

you can get rust converter from Fastenal, Gemplers, or just about anywhere else really.
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Postby Fordlords » Thu Aug 17, 2006 3:30 am

I agree with Jim Becker, the truck bed lining will not likely help in that area of the deck.

The newer CC decks are painted CC/MTD yellow rather than the old IH white, but both really make any rust show. What I would do is clean it up as best you can, and make a mask tape line for repainting. Cover up for overspray, then prime and paint with CC yellow the unattractive areas. Or best yet remove the deck in the fall and give it a full cleaning and repainting. No matter what, a mower deck thet gets used will look ugly after a few seasons if not attended to in some way.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Thu Aug 17, 2006 7:09 am

There are several different ways to fight the rust, many companies including Rustoleum sell rust converters that seem to work quite well. The thing I have tried I like best is the POR-15 ( http://www.por15.com ) primer. It does require a little more work though. It can be applied existing rust, and prevent further rust. Applying it over existing paint does not do well, because it is then dependetn on the already existing paint for a seal. I put it on my old White (sorry aobut the blasphemy on this site), and it has doen quite well wehre it was rusting around the rim as you have described. They clain it to be extremely hard when cured, so I tried it on the botom. It lasted a little longer there, but not enough to make it worht the extra tiem and expense due to the extreme abrasive wear it gets in my area.
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Postby TractorLarry » Thu Aug 17, 2006 9:35 am

Thanks for the tips guys!

I guess I'll call C&G and get a couple of cans of that Cub Yellow on the way.

-Larry

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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:01 am

Hey Larry...Don't forget you can use KROIL to effectively remove the rust...then use the POR15 or something similiar to prime and seal the bare metal. Remember, just exposing bare metal to the air begins the rusting process just from humidity and condensation...so get down to bare metal and prime imediately! :wink:
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Postby TractorLarry » Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:34 am

Thanks! I'll see if I can find some of that.

-Larry

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Postby 'Country' Elliott » Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:57 pm

Hey Larry...here's their web site http://www.kanolabs.com
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Postby TractorLarry » Wed Sep 06, 2006 11:35 pm

Is Exrust what I should use?

Someone mentioned Kroil, but that is a frozen part remover with lubrication. Not sure I'd want to use that in an area that is to be repainted.

I don't need much as I have little rust. Want to keep it that way :)

-Larry

'Country' Elliott wrote:Hey Larry...here's their web site http://www.kanolabs.com

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Tractors Owned: 1948 McCormick-Deering Farmall Cub
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1971 JD 112 Garden Tractor
1928 Economy Hit & Miss Engine
1927 David Bradley "Little Wonder" Feed Grinder
1 A.H. Patch Corn Shellers
1 A.H. Patch #1 Grist Mill
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: TN, Loudon (near Knoxville)

Postby 'Country' Elliott » Thu Sep 07, 2006 4:18 am

Hey Larry...I mentioned KROIL. and for a GOOD REASON. :wink:

KROIL dissolves RUST (yes it's a lubricant too), but you can use a little rubbin' alcohol over the KROIL-CLEANED, rust-free areas BEFORE YOU PAINT.

Buy a can of AEROKROIL first if you only have small areas of RUST that you need to do. HOWEVER, I can personally guarantee it that you'll end up gettin' a gallon of KROIL in no time at all, because you'll find a LOT OF USES for it if you WORK ON TRACTORS OR CARS OR ENGINES! :wink:
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