127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby Jim Becker » Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:22 pm

It would take quite a bit of machine work on the upper shaft to change to a sprocket. With a small enough sprocket on the lower shaft to keep close to the original speed, it will take a lot of oil to get the chain to pick any up. Other than those complications, you should be able to do it inside the reduction housing.

The required machine work on the upper shaft is why I was leaning towards what I suggested.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby BigBill » Mon Oct 27, 2008 3:07 pm

I'm thinking about putting my shop back together again. Just so i can rework and make my own parts.

You guys are having some great ideas. I think that a chain drive will work too. A good quality roller chain will last forever in gear oil inside the final drives. I better order a mcmaster carr industrial supply catalog soon so i can start gathering parts for my projects.

The upper bearing on the final drives.
I wonder if we need to bath tub the top bearing with a halfmoon piece of sheetmetal so the lube will stay in the bearing about 50% all the time. Some machines i built had this feature to keep the bearings wet all the time with lube. There fed by the chain bringing up the lube and the splash.

I wonder if the int154 finals will fit as easy as the fcub final drives inside the cadets frame?

If not i'll need to fab a whole new frame too. I'm jones'n to get started on this soon. I'm ready to take my extra 108 apart to make this start to happen. All i have are standard tranny's.

I was using and looking at my 70 cc with the bigger tires and wishing it was a tad longer wheelbase, just a tad bigger.....it would be an awesome tractor.

How can we do a real hi/low setup?
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby Paul B » Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:04 pm

I would think the easiest way to do a "real hi/low setup" is to use two transmissions. Economy/Power King had two transmissions as an option on some models, and you don't want to get in a slow race against one of them.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby JimT » Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:12 am

BigBill wrote:I wonder if the int154 finals will fit as easy as the fcub final drives inside the cadets frame?


Hey Bill, remember the 154 finals are turned 90 degrees up. The bolt hole pattern is not even around the mounting holes in the finals. Remember George ran into that with his low rider cub. He had to do some redrilling to get the finals turned upside down. If you are wanting to raise the cub you will probably need to redrill some of the final holes on the 154 finals. Also I found out that the axle seals in the side of a FCub tranny will fit in the bearing retainers in the cub cadet tranny and the cub cadet retainers are already cut to accept the o-rings also. I thought I would have to use the bearing retainers out of an FCub but I didn't have to. The bosses on the top to mounting holes of the FCub final on the left side had to be ground down about a quarter of an inch to fit inside the cadet frame rails on the 127. The right side final fit right in without any grinding.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby junkman1946 » Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:56 am

On the thoughts about the dificulty with using the original shafts: How about if you used 2 long shafts from the right side of a Cub. Cut off the gear, then machined the shaft down to accept the sprocket. Also on lubing the chain: if you used 90wt. in the bottom case I think it would pick up and hold sufficient lube to get to the top. I.E. a motorcycle chain, runs a lot fastetr and a lot dirtier and look how long they last. Frank
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby BigBill » Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:09 am

Sorry i need to be more clear when i post, some of my thoughts are questions rather than suggestions. I need to be more clear.


In putting the 154 finals on a cub cadet i would mount them the sameway there on my int154 which is in a horizontal position. Mainly because when the bigger tires are installed it will be high enough for me. This is if i would use the 8,3x24's or the 13,6x16's tires and rims. If i was to use the 31"1550-15" tires i would rethink it and use the farmall cub finals in the vertical position for more height. I do have some new 14.9x24 ag's too.

Brakes;
How about the brakes? We can use the brake band setup from either final drives. You could add a right brake pedal.

What would you do with the standard tranny with the internal brake? The orginal wet brake could be used as a parking brake since its there already

It sounds like a go right now. This weekend i'll start pulling the steel for the new longer frame. I'll fabricate and drill the frame rails first. I think a longer wheelbase around 18" is
the way to go. I think this will be my Front loader/Backhoe project tractor. It will be much easier to sandwich two frame rails together for both sides rather than add a subframe to an exsisting tractor. I have some heavier bended/fabricated "C" type 6"channel thats has a thicker wall than the orginal cub cadet frame. If its doubled it will be very strong. Plus it needs to be boxed in certain areas for strength too.


I have a int154 cub; dashboard/dashboard support, hoods, front axles, steering box with linkages, final drives, gas tank, tranny's, brake linkages and rear sheetmetal already here to start with. I have a 14hp kohler engine for it too. With the gearing the 14hp should be plenty of power.

I have most of the hydraulics for the FEL/backhoe too.

The only thing is the clutch if i use a cadet clutch does it need to be a puller type setup?

Its not hard to fab a twin disc setup with ther heavier clutch springs. We may need to think about a hydraulic slave unit on the clutch pedal so its easier to push down yet stronger when the clutch is engaged.

This is going to be fun..... :{_}: :{_}: :{_}: :{_}: :{_}: :{_}:

The only hard thing is i need to fab a new front int154 grille housing. I have the headlite panel already too.

A doodlebug dual tranny setup that could be done.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby Jim Becker » Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:50 am

junkman1946 wrote:On the thoughts about the dificulty with using the original shafts: How about if you used 2 long shafts from the right side of a Cub. Cut off the gear, then machined the shaft down to accept the sprocket. Also on lubing the chain: if you used 90wt. in the bottom case I think it would pick up and hold sufficient lube to get to the top. I.E. a motorcycle chain, runs a lot fastetr and a lot dirtier and look how long they last. Frank

If you use long shafts and cut to length, you could even do without the spacer. Just cut the shafts to the appropriate length. It also should be possible to add a thin but large diameter oil slinger next to the sprocket on the lower shaft to pick up oil from the pan. That would take care of the problem of the smaller diameter lower sprocket not reaching the oil.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby junkman1946 » Tue Oct 28, 2008 10:28 pm

Hot Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I knew we could do it. Now that we got Jim T.s new hicrop built. Whatll we build next?????????
1948 Cub F,1962 Original,1971 C.C.model86, WheelHorse and C.C. mini pulling tractors, C.C. models1450 , 682,106,123, Ariens GT17 with loader,Jacobsen Powermax loader and backhoe 8 more Cub Cadets in the shed waiting to go under the knife and spray gun.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby BigBill » Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:27 am

What chain would you use? "O" ring or standard non o ring chain?

I would perfer non o ring chain so the gear oil can get inside it much easier so it will see more lube. If we use o ring chain the o rings will seal the gear oil from getting inside to the rollers to lube it. I think in this case the cheaper non o ring chain is better.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby alabama mike » Wed Nov 03, 2010 5:37 pm

I know I'm bringing back a 2 year old post, but I'm curious, did a high crop cub ever get built?
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby JimT » Mon Feb 14, 2011 12:05 am

alabama mike wrote:I know I'm bringing back a 2 year old post, but I'm curious, did a high crop cub ever get built?


Guess I missed this. This is what the project turned out to be. I switched gears in the middle of the project and went another way.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43028&p=355907&hilit=Brutus#p355907
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby alabama mike » Wed Feb 16, 2011 8:39 am

JimT wrote:
alabama mike wrote:I know I'm bringing back a 2 year old post, but I'm curious, did a high crop cub ever get built?


Guess I missed this. This is what the project turned out to be. I switched gears in the middle of the project and went another way.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=43028&p=355907&hilit=Brutus#p355907


Well I'm kinda stealing your idea, I've started with a 124 and lengthed the frame 18 inches. I'm using the farmall cub front axle and rear bull gears with the offset axle, basicly a cub cadet high boy with culti-vision, when I'm finished I hope to have a tractor that is the same size as a farmall cub but with the 124 engine and sheet metal.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby JimT » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:44 pm

alabama mike wrote:Well I'm kinda stealing your idea, I've started with a 124 and lengthed the frame 18 inches. I'm using the farmall cub front axle and rear bull gears with the offset axle, basicly a cub cadet high boy with culti-vision, when I'm finished I hope to have a tractor that is the same size as a farmall cub but with the 124 engine and sheet metal.


Sounds like a good project. I have thought about doing one like that also. One thing to remember is that when you add the rear finals you will be adding another 6-1 gear reduction. That means with a stock cub cadet tranny you will only go about 1 mph with stock cub cadet tires. I got around this with Brutus by removing the gear reduction in the front of the tranny and installed a chain and sprockets with an oil slinger. You will also need to install O-rings and seals in the bearing carriers for the stock cub tranny. I had to cut the top of the gear reduction cover out to make room for the chain and sprocket. I made a cover for it also. The slinger is in there is get oil up to the top bearing because the chain is not low enough to run in the oil. So far it has been working for the last 2 summers.

Splasher 1.JPG


Splasher 2.JPG


Cover 1.JPG
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby alabama mike » Thu Feb 17, 2011 4:47 pm

My current thoughts were to order the overdrive gears from midwest cubs, I thought about the chain idea, I really like the way you did your chain, might have to rethink how I'm gonna do it. I have the frame 18 inches over stock now. so the rearend is the next order of business.
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Re: 127 Cub Cadet High-Crop Project

Postby JimT » Thu Feb 17, 2011 5:00 pm

alabama mike wrote:My current thoughts were to order the overdrive gears from midwest cubs.


I called them and when using some of the larger overdrive gears you will still need to do some work to the gear reduction housing in order for some of the larger gear reduction gears to fit in the housing. They said something about grinding out the inside of the upper portion of the housing. If I remember right the top sprocket on Brutus is a 14 tooth and the bottom is a 16 tooth with a #40 chain. This gave me almost a 1-1 ratio. Brutus will run about 11 mph with this set up and the tires that are on it. It leaves a little slope in the chain because there is not enough room for a tensioner, but it is not bad.
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