IHC Cub Cadet Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cadet related issues.
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Okay, so we bought a new 1045 and after mowing for about 100 feet we hit a green, rotten root and got the blade stuck. After finally getting it loose we let it idle for a few minutes and it seemed okay. No trouble starting or anything like that. We put it up for the night and then took it back out the next morning. It started at first and when the blade was lowered it cut into the ground. Okay, so we figured that we bent the blade. However, then the mower just shut off and now it won't start at all. Talked to the dealer today and they said that it could be the timer, shaft, spindle...a variety of things. Bought a new blade and we're going to replace it today.
I can't believe this happened after only having the mower for one day. We didn't even get to mow with it.
The dealer won't take any repsonsibilty for it, of course, because they are deeming it as an operator's mistake. We have no way to get it to anyone so we'll have to call someone to come out and look at it. Any suggestions?
I have to agree with the dealer also on this, as it is not a defect in the equipment that has caused the problem, and I have yet to see a warenty that covers operator error.
Now wiith that said, after replaceing the bent blade, check all the wires running to any saftey switches that control the deck, as I would find hard to belive a bent deck shaft would prevent the motor from starting, considering the deck is not engauged when you are starting the motor.
What is this timer your dealer is refering to as I have not heard of a timer on a mowing deck. The old deck that ran a tooth belt is what kept the blades in time on the old Cub Cadet ( orginals as most refer to them as )
Is one cub ever enough ?
If this mower has a single cylinder Kohler Courage engine, they have been known to shear the key between the flywheel and crankshaft, even without hitting something with the blade. Since the root stopped the blade, it is possible that key was damaged enough to fail/shear, and If that key is sheared, it is very unlikely that the engine will start until the key is replaced/repaired.
Paul hit it on the head. The dealer knows about this too, because about 1 in 10 of those Courage engines sheer off the key the very first time they are started up. It's too bad that you already told them that you hit a tree root, because it is likely that they would have fixed the key for free otherwise. Now that you have done the damage to the unit, as others have said, there is no warranty for operator error.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
Just to clarify, it is the single cylinder Kohler Courage engines that have been known to have some problems, more than just the flywheel key, the "V" twin Courage seems to be a pretty good engine so far, I'm told.
Make sure the key is replaced with another soft key so it will shear again if you hit something. I see some owners replace the key with a hardened key and they bent the crankshaft when the key wouldn't shear. The soft key is there for a reason.
My local town repair guy has other brands of tractors with these engine piling up now too. The single cylinders seem to have problems. Some of the newer engines have the overhead belt driven cams too. He won't even touch those. He doesn't like to work on the older cadets too. Lately he mainly does craftsman repairs.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
7 posts • Page 1 of 1
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