IHC Cub Cadet Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cadet related issues.
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Aron bought a Cub Cadet 100 and is in the process of going through it.
Generator is having new brushes & bearings replaced along with the armature turned as I write.
He went through the carb this weekend at Cecil's. Engine runs good. This fall he will be tearing it down and doing a valve job, checking compression -possibly rings if necessary, new seals, etc.
1) Driveshaft is pretty well worn & wobbly. Need to get a replacement. Anyone have one laying around? What else should be replaced with along with the driveshaft?
2) Needs a new battery. Any suggestions for best fit and performance?
3) He will be using the tractor primarily for his 4H Club pulling events, either a transfer sled or stoneboat. Looking for hitch designs/ideas.
4) Needs new tires front & rear. Any suggestions?
5) Could use a better condition pan seat. His has cracks and patches.
p.s. - Oh BTW, He is one happy kid!
Peter and Aron,
Congrats on the Cadet purchase. You can't go wrong with a 100.
Go to Wal Mart and grab the higher cranking amperage battery. They run about $25, and are as good as any others that you can buy.
Drive shafts are sometimes hard to find, typically because they are worn out. I had one, but it had been cut for a creeper drive. I know a couple of people who have taken bar stock and made their own. I believe they are 5/8" diameter, with just a couple of holes drilled in it. Double check the coupling on the transmission end of the driveshaft, as if the shaft is wobbly, then it may also be a bit worn. I may have one of those, but I'll have to check.
You always see these hitches on e-bay for pulling tractors, but I have never used one. They look simple enough to make, however this one is on e-bay now for $10.50, which isn't a bad price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Garden-Tractor-Pull ... 3cae9a1674
I'll look around but I may also have a pan seat. If I do, it is the style with the holes in it rather than the smooth bottom one.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
Drive shafts are still available from IH/Cadet dealerships. Around $100-.
I made a driveshaft for a 102 couple months ago. Took old drive shaft and clamped it to the rod (new drive shaft). Drilled the holes on the drill press. I used an axle rod of the correct diameter that I had on hand.
After seeing the price and how simple the drive shaft is - took 10 or 15 minutes to cut to length, drill holes and clean up burrs.
Tires look good in the photo. Most tire shops will have or can obtain the tires.
There is a guy on epay that makes driveshafts of all kinds for Cub Cadets. Seems to be fairly reasonable, and the quality is very high. I've bought two driveshafts now, and I've been very happy with them.
User id: Kerrprecision1 or something like that.
Though trillions and trillions of eyes have been watching the skies for as long as human memory exists, no gods nor angels have been seen or documented outside of religion. The number of spaceships being sighted however has become much more prevalent.
You can get well made after market driveshafts for about 1/2 the Cub Cadet price, here, if you don't want to make one.
I agree with others on making one. I stretched the frame 6" on my 109 and I got a piece of round stock from TSC and made a new one. Works very well. The round stock is 5/8" in diameter. You just have to clamp the old one to the new one and drill the holes in the new shaft. The end of my shaft at the tranny had a nipple on it to fit into the coupler. I believe this is to center the drive shaft with the tranny. I used a bench grinder and ground the end of the new shaft to size.
If you can't find it, don't lose it.
Tell Aron to look here. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm This site will tell him everything he wants to know about making the C.C. a competitive puller. I suggest you jump on that hitch pictured above, their worth about $100. He's going to want to go with a little better grade of steel for the driveshaft.I'm not familiar with the numbers. He will want something that can be drilled but has better tensile strength.I've twisted a stock driveshaft literally into a horseshoe. The above site has good stuff, reasonable, the clutch disc is another problem.Stock will slip, buy or make the aluminum one.
1948 Cub F,1962 Original,1971 C.C.model86, WheelHorse and C.C. mini pulling tractors, C.C. models1450 , 682,106,123, Ariens GT17 with loader,Jacobsen Powermax loader and backhoe 8 more Cub Cadets in the shed waiting to go under the knife and spray gun.
I would get some good quality round stock and make a new drive shaft. I purchased a piece of round stock from mcmaster carr a while back. I believe i purchased thompson shaft its hardened on the outside but still drillable.
I'm not sure what the pullers do with the spirol pins that are used in the drive shafts. Do they weld up one end on the rear part and use a spirol pin or a hardened bolt to connect to the rear axle? Even my 70 cadet with the 8hp kolher will shear the spirol pins at the tranny with just the over size tires and the snowplow. The pins seem to be the weak link.
I been testing tire threads to see which one i like between the tru power ag's and the true power at's. The ag's have our fcub type lugs while the at's have more wrap around thinner lugs. I till gardens with the 26"-1200-12 at's with my cadet 100 and never had a problem yet. I think i'm getting more grip with the at's but there's less weight on the lugs with more lugs on harder ground. Maybe its a more even bite and traction.
I'm not sure about whats allowed with the rear hitches but i would come off the tractor frame more towards the front end. This would put more down force on the rear tires plus keep the front end down at the sametime. Pulling from the mid frame area just might be the hot ticket when pulling. You need to fabricate rails that go under the tractor with the hitch on the rear.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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