IHC Cub Cadet Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cadet related issues.
Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:32 pm
Heres the problem...driving the tractor around the yard today and was in second gear. let the clutch go to get going and took off fine then lost gear. it stayed in gear but it just rolled until it stopped. i guess im asking if this is a clutch problem or do i have something worse in the tranny. 2nd and 3rd now dont roll at all but it goes into gear. in 1st if i depress the clutch just enough it grabs gear and will go a little. but i dont want to burn it up. any help would be awesome! thanks
Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:52 pm
so its under the control panel? do i have that right
Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:57 pm
Woops. Posted information on wrong tractor. Had to delete post.
It's more than likely a clutch related problem. Clutch parts wear out. CC transmissions - almost never wear out.
Remove the clutch cover. The perforated cover between the engine and the dash - 2 screws - mounted on the frame. With the cover removed you can see the clutch system.
Parts are available from CC or Case/IH dealers. But, some parts cost more than my allowance.
Take a look at the service manual for Cub models ending in even numbers. Procedures are the same.
Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:59 pm
lafleur94 wrote:so its under the control panel? do i have that right
Clutch is on the back side of the engine. If the clutch cover is still there it's directly behind the engine.
Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:57 am
Also check the roll pins in the coupler for the transmission. It will be a thick steel collar that couples the driveshaft to the transmission shaft. Sometimes those roll pins break.
Fri Jun 03, 2011 4:45 pm
alright got the hood from grill weight and the motor is now rocked forward. it disengaged the clutch wheel to the crank so the whole clutch is now free. the main disc plate that goes onto the crank with the 3 studs seems washed out. my grandpa drilled new holes cause the originals were washed out. the new ones he drilled idk how long ago but these ones look a little washed out too...should i replace it?
also what should i look for next?
Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:11 pm
The clutch shaft has two roll pins one at the back mentioned by Pony Master and another on at the hub assembly (front end). Common cause for stoppage problem is shearing one of the roll pins.
Take a look in the service manual for a pictoral of the drive train and the parts manual for an exploded view.
Depending on how you have the Cadet positioned - you can put the tractor in 1st gear and turn the shaft (clutch shaft) going from the clutch to the back of the tractor by hand or with wrench. If the shaft turns and the rear wheels do not drive the tractor - the rear roll pin is more than likely sheared.
You will have to check for more damaged or broken parts.
Guessing you are describing the clutch driving disk (the friction disk held between the pressure plates). If badly damaged, replace. It might well be servicable. Hard to tell without seeing.
Sat Jun 04, 2011 7:09 pm
good news the drive shaft end that went into the tranny had BOTH roll pins sheared. took the clutch out and pounded the pins out went to the hardware store and bought 2 dollars worth of pins. got the drive shaft back in and tomorrow is assembly day. i dont want this tractor to be a rolling chassi for much longer!
Sun Jun 05, 2011 4:25 am
If you bought the regular roll pins and not the double or Sproil pins you will need more than $2 worth
You can get them through Mcmaster-Carr.
Sun Jun 05, 2011 6:58 am
What he should have said, is there are several different roll pin syles and strengths. The ones from a hardward store typically are NOT the ones you want to put in your driveline, they are too weak. They will work for a while, as a bandaid, but they will break under load. You'll likely need to go to a local Cub Cadet dealer, or a heavy equipment dealer to find dowel roll pins, which when you look at them, are nearly solid, with no hollow point in the middle.
The ones you bought probably look like this:
The ones you want look like this:
Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:10 am
Yup when they first fail to move its a 90% chance that its a roll pin problem its there weakest link.
I'm doing a test in progress using mcmaster carr's heavy duty spirol roll pins. My 70 cub cadet that pulls my trailer and plows dirt sheared the IH pins, but these were very old too. I had none here but i can order from mcmaster and get them delivered by UPS in 24hrs or sooner. The very next day i had the pins sitting here. I installed them its about 2 years now and there still holding up. I just took the plow off this spring too. This cadet also pulls over a 1/4 cord of forewood in my trailer too. I don't baby any of my machines they all work hard. Billwww.mcmaster.com
1/4" diameter Spirol roll pins "heavy duty" #95755A415 25 pins for $$9.87 these are wound just like the IH ones. look at there pics.
BTW; I also have the orginal IH pins sitting here too just incase. Lets not forget the spirol pin acts as a spring too in the drive train. It also asorbs some of the drive shaft shock too. The standard roll pins won't work. But it seems the industrial heavy duty ones will. I also think we need to install the gap in them a certain way too. They need to be installed in there strongest postition.
Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:51 pm
im not hauling anything heavier than a small roller and a tiny wagon. the old girl is about whipped but your right i dont have the heavy duty pins if these break ill get those ones! thanks for the advise
Mon Jun 06, 2011 10:29 am
The pins that went in my cadet 70 were the standard roll pins with the single wall. But i been plowing/dozing dump truck loads of fill with it too. But it was the sudden shock when plowing my driveway and hitting rocks that split the pin.
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