Farmall Cub

Hi folks.

I'm putting the 44a mower back on my 1200 Cub Cadet, and I do not remember very well about the PTO belt adjustment method. I know there is some kind of measuring device on the left (facing the tractor in front) of the quick attach bracket.

There is an adjustment rod with a locking nut to the right side - again facing the the tractor in front. But, what is the adjustment, and which way do I turn the locking nut to get the desired effect? I've looked at the IH manual, and because my eyes aren't that great, it doesn't make much sense to me. Do I back off the adjusting nut to get the lever to pull in, or vice versa?

Thanks for the help once again.

The lever on the left as you face the front of the tractor has slot in it, and behind that are a couple of "V" notches in the top edge of the lever. If you are taking the deck off, you would back the nut on the adjustment rod on the right, off to loosen the belt, until the notch in the lever on the left could be locked onto the front frame crosspiece of the tractor. That will then allow you to remove the PTO belt if you are taking the belt/deck off, or if you are installing the deck/belt, it will allow you to install the belt. Once the belt is on, unlock the left lever from the frame crosspiece, and then tighten the nut on the adjusting rod until the first "V" notch on the top of the lever on the left is inline, or centered, with the front frame crosspiece. The belt will then have the proper tension. If the belt is older and has stretched some, it may require a bit more tension, but start out with the "V" inline with the frame.

Thanks Paul for the quick reply. The way the manual shows it, it seems like the second "V" is the one I was to tighten to. This seemed way out of sorts to me.

Of course, this is the first Cub Cadet I've owned, and I'm going back through PO stuff and having to straighten it out a bit as I go.

Much appreciated. BTW, that locking nut seems to have reached the end of the threads on the adjustment. It just spins and spins as if it was stripped. What do you suggest to get the nut to re-engage the threads or some way to back it out?

You can use an I bolt as a replacement if the adjusting bolt is stripped. this is pretty common.

You are supposed to pull tension on the pulley with the adjusting bolt on the right until the face of the subframe is lined up in between the two V notches on the left adjusting arm, as Paul mentioned above. However, once you have adjusted it to the correct tension, you do NOT have to readjust the bolt to take the belt off of the tractor. There is a bigger notch in that same left arm, closer out to the front. That arm is spring loaded, and the bigger notch is meant to be pushed in by hand and slid up on the face of the subframe, thereby releasing the tension on the belt. Then you can simply slide the belt on and off, without messing with your fine adjustment on the right. Once the belt is back on, simply let the left arm free of the subframe, and it should pull back out to the same location between the V notches.

If you put a new belt on, you will have to run the mower a couple of times and re-adjust the threaded adjuster probably a couple of times. Once the belt has broken in a little, it will not need to be adjusted for a long time, unless you hit something or cause the belt to slip and wear or stretch more than usual.

Thanks GItractorman for the info. I still need to figure out some way to cut that old adjusting bolt out. That is a very tight area to work in, and laying on your back sawing with metal flying in your face isn't for me.

The whole subframe assembly comes right off of the tractor! Take the mower deck off. Lower the lift mechanism to it's lowest point. On each side, where the lift mechanism pins are, there are cotter pins and washers that hold the hanger brackets for the subframe. Pull those pins and remove the hanger brackets. The rear of the subframe will now be laying on the ground. Now, while sitting in front of the tractor, release the quick hitch spring (1/4" diameter arm that runs just under the frame of the tractor) and pull on the suframe assembly at the same time. The whole suframe will slide right out from under the tractor, and you can work on it on your workbench. Reinstallation is the exact opposite. Should save you a TON of time trying to lay on your back and work.

Hey Gitractorman! Yeah, I know about the whole subassembly coming off. I had it off for restoration purposes and while I had my JB Jr installed on the Cub Cadet.

I'd started the reverse installation when I found these small extra problems.

Last evening, I went back out to the garage, and looked at things a bit better. Hotter than blazes out there, and it didn't take long before the sweat was burning my eyes again. But.....I was undeterred.

I found an extra nut on the inside of the quick attach bracket. I was able to back that nut off with a 1/2" wrench enough to give me some leeway to pull on the piece of that bolt with a pair of pliers.

I fired up the air compressor and started using my cutoff tool. Didn't take long before I had the old nut on the outside cut into pieces and completely off the tractor.

Using the pliers, I bent the stub a little bit back and forth and it snapped. After that, I pushed the rest of the stub through the quick attach bracket, then removed the other nut on the inside.

Couple of minutes later, I had it disassembled and cleaned up my mess. Boy, did that cold adult beverage or two taste good after that.

Of course, a good cold wet splashing of water on the face did wonders too.

My new part is already on order from CNGCO, so I should be set anytime now.

I do appreciate the help. One more step and this thing should be up and mowing again.

New part came in. Just in time for it to get hotter than blazes too. Ok, go ahead and say it....I'm hard headed.

I managed to get the new adjuster on and try the mower out. I was actually surprised at how well that old mower did. Not quite the quality of my Simplicity, but not bad either.

Thanks folks for the help. As always, it is much appreciated.