Farmall Cub

My main problem is that I have not had my CC 104 for very long, so I dont know what might be wrong. When I start it, the amp meter goes up realy high, sometimes to or past the C on the gauge. Then it usualy dies down, but recently it has been showing no charge after the initial spike when I start it. I know the gauge is still good because it still shows a discharge when it is running. Is the a short in the wireing or is there any way for the generator to die and still have the starter to work? I dont know all that much about starter generators so I dont know what can happen to them. If anyone could please let me know what they think may be wrong with it, I would greatly appriciate it. Thanks for any insite, Ray.

The S/G will start but not charge. When its running short the field to ground(max charge) and the engine RPM should drop. If it dose disconnect the + battery cable and it quits running you VR(voltage Regulator is bad.

I don't know where 15057 is but if your close to

4th Annual Cub Day's at J and D Lawn & Tractors Sales , 11030 Perry Hwy. (Rt 19) Wexford, Pa.
Aug 21, 9-3

They are having a garden tractor show today 9 to 3.

I realised that the battery cable was loose, so I tightened it and that wasnt the problem. When I start it, it charges for mably ten seconds if I leave the throttle as low as possible. After that the gauge goes to slight discharge and the rpm's slightly increase. So I dont know if this means that my VR is bad or what it is. If any one might know what is wrong, I would greatly appriciate your insite.

Has it been starting fine every time or is the battery getting weak and dying. First I would try cleaning the batter terminals and check all of the connections in the wiring. It sounds like the voltage regulator may be going bad but if it was going bad the battery will be getting weak to.

I had my S?G not charging at all. But first it would start up and after a while the amp gage would show a little charge then now nothing. I removed the regulator cover and took some 400 grit sand paper and cleaned all the contacts. Then i reverse the sand paper and use the smooth backing gain to get the grit that maybe left in the contacts so i know there clean and making a good solid contact. This reversing the sand paper also works on ign points too. One little spec of sandpaper grit can cause the contacts/points to hold open and not make the connection. Now my S/G is charging and as the battery amperage comes up the amp gage shows a lesser charge as it should as the battery is fully charged now. I ran this tractor all winter without a hickup till it got warmer. From now on i make sure the s/g has good brushes and bearings and clean the contacts in the regulator. These s/g's are a great setup if there maintained properly. I'm an old school mechanic and i repair everything, i'm not a remove and replace mechanic. It cost me $0.75 for new starter brushes for my chevy 350v8 and the guy in the auto parts store got mad at me for refusing to purchase a $50 rebuilt starter. I knew my fields and armature were ok and it just needed the armature turned which i did and i put in new brushes and its good for another 125k.

I have also learned never, never change the water pump unless its leaking or the bearing is really loose. I took out better water pumps with over 100k on them than the new water pumps i installed, they had more play in the new bearings. On my last suburban restoration at 88k i put in the orginal water pump and drove it another 100k. If it ain't broke don't fix it reuse it. The dam new parts are worst than the used parts were replacing. (american parts)

One dollar bills are better for cleaning points then emery paper as you can still get that one piece of grit. Twenties don't work 20 times better