IHC Cub Cadet Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cadet related issues.
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I am about to change the alternator belt on a Cub Cadet 1772 Diesel with the Kubota engine. Just wondering if anyone on here has done that job and if there are any helpful tips or tricks in doing so. Looks like I am going to have to remove the battery tray and pull the driveshaft towards the rear of the tractor to get it on. Anything else I should be aware of, or any tips on making it an easy job? I have a Service Manual and will be looking at that in a little bit before I tear into it. I'm sure it mentions changing the belt in there somewhere.
Ok. The manuals I have say nothing about changing the alternator belt. It did tell how to remove the engine and talked about removing 2 bolts at the front of the driveshaft and a roll pin. I have removed those 2 bolts (actually just the nuts because the bolts will not back out due to the clutch bein in the way). that hold the cast piece/flange on the clutch(?). The roll pin is also in that cast piece so the driveshaft doesn't spin freely. I can't get the roll pin to budge after spraying with PB blaster and using a super a headlight arm to hit it with a hammer. I hit from both sides hoping to free the pin. It's not moving and I'm afraid I will mushroom it if I go further. Help is appreciated.
Ok, here goes for anyone else that needs to tackle removing and replacing the Alternator Belt on one of these Diesel Cub Cadets.
I got the roll pin out without mushrooming it. I would have used a punch but where it is located, my punches aren't long enough. I found a long solid bar about the size of the roll pin hole and it drove right out.
The 2 nuts I removed to get that cast piece/flange loose......I'm not sure if that helped or not because all the driveshaft would do was slide back and forth about 3/4 of an inch....still not giving me clearance to remove and install the belt.. I ended up removing 3 bolts where the metal plate of that whole assembly on the shaft bolts to the engine itself. Once those three were (painstakingly) removed, the whole unit slid back on the driveshaft giving me JUST ENOUGH room to slide the old belt off and the new one on. Got the new belt on and tightened to specs.
For now, I didn't reinstall the driveshaft because when I slid the whole assembly back I noticed a brass(?) bushing almost slide off the end of the shaft. I presume this is the pilot bushing that goes on the driveshaft up into the engine. I removed it to inspect it, and it is round on the inside, but along the outside there is a huge flat spot on one side. I will be replacing bushing with a new one before bolting everything back up.
I am really glad I was able to figure out how to remove/reinstall the Alternator Belt on this lawn tractor! I do believe I have the hardest task of the whole job ahead of me.......bolting that driveshaft assembly back up and trying to get the roll pin back in. It's such a cramped space it makes it harder to do, on top of it being a little tough in the first place.
I'm really sorry I didn't see your post earlier, but I've been traveling a lot over the past few months. You shouldn't have to take that roll pin out to remove the drive shaft. The 4 9/16" bolts in the flexible coupler are all you need to remove to take the drive shaft loose. You can see one of the bolts in your second picture above. Then, I'd take the engine mount bolts loose and slide the motor forward to replace the belt. That will give you a bunch more space to work, plus, those motors are notorious for breaking or loosening the engine mounting bolts, so it's good to take them loose and check them anyway.
As for the bushing, like I PMd you, you're almost going to have to check directly with a Cub Cadet dealer to see what that part is. I've not seen one myself, so I can't help you.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
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