Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:03 pm
Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:34 pm
Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:40 am
Matt Kirsch wrote:Wow, way too much to keep track of, so I might be asking some dumb questions here:
Matt Kirsch wrote:1. Have you pulled the distributor cap off and cranked the engine over? You should see the rotor turning.
Matt Kirsch wrote: 2. Have you done the Briggs & Stratton spark test? That's pull a plug, put the wire back on it, and ground it against the block. You should see a spark when you crank the engine. No spark, don't even bother trying to start the engine.
Matt Kirsch wrote: Don't crank and crank and crank and crank and crank and crank until the battery is flat. If it doesn't fire right away, it's not going to fire. You can do a lot more troubleshooting on a battery charge that way.
Matt Kirsch wrote: If you can't read 12V by touching the red probe to the + side of the coil, and the black probe to the frame of the tractor with the switch in "run," there's no point in cranking the engine. You won't have a spark.
Wed Aug 15, 2007 6:58 am
Into Tractors wrote:Joe, Well C$%P Now you have me pulling my hair out. At one time you thought the starter/gen had problems? With a new battery (unless it wasn't fully charged?) it shouldn't be acting like that.
If you have a trickle charger, I'd put it on the battery and let it fully charge and report back to us.
I can bring my battery charge that has a "Start Mode" on it, if it still won't spin up, then the starter needs some attention.
In the mean time, we need to look further into electrical issues & mechanical as well.
I have you work number, so PM me in the morning and I'll call you from the office.
The next step is after charging the battery, see if the engine spins over. If not, need to check all the elctrical connections and make sure they are good. If they check out, I'd suggest loosening the belt and see if the engine itself turns easily. If not, you now know we have mechanical issues with the engine.
If the engine can be turned freely, I'd bypass the electrical system, and wire the starter directly and see if it spins. If not, the starter needs to be looked over. If it does spin up, we need to address some electrical issues.
PM me in the morning and we'll chat.
Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:11 am
Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:32 pm
Wed Aug 15, 2007 7:36 pm
I hope Mike is able to come out tomorrow night
Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:34 pm
Into Tractors wrote:I hope Mike is able to come out tomorrow night
Joe, still planning on coming if you need the help. Already packed up some of my electrical equipment and such, to include my battery charger with the start option on it, and a carb and an aux fuel tank.
Tell us, did you change/alter/bypass anything we chatted about today? Might help us narrow down the problem.
I took the black wire between the 8 pin connector and the ign switch and the coil + apart. As mentioned above, I had forgotten what all I had done to that circuit. I actually crimped on a spade and mating connector to the two broken ends of that wire and used the 3M bridge to make a jumper to the coil off of the circuit created with this repair. I measured off of each piece of the circuit with the VOM until I figured out what was hot and what was not. Through this process, I determined that the black wire had some sort of problem between the dash and the coil within the braided harness. I used a jumper I made at work with an alligator clip at each end to go between the known hot end of the black wire at the dash side and the coil + post. When I turned the key to the start position, I got 12.5 v alternating with a lesser value on a rythmic basis while cranking. What's more telling is that the ammeter actually registered some activity while this was happening and the Harbor Fieght spark o meter gave me signs of spark on every 4th engine cycle. The cranking cycles were still slow and tedious but the spark was there and the coil had what it needed. I think we're pretty close.
I know from diesel work not to kill a starter when something doesn't crank but if this starter is weak, it could be the problem. What I don;t know is how fast these things crank. It seems leisurely to me but diesels need a stout crisp crank to turn over. Gassers need less.
I'm not getting sputters of combustion and I want some sputters. I have starting fluid, maybe a charged battery and chemical persuasion is all we need. I'm thinking there's a good chance we'll need that camera. See you tomorrow, please let me know of questions and what time you;ll be here. Might even pack up my camera, as it would be nice to post a picture of you driving the darn thing after we get it running.
Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:52 am
Thu Aug 16, 2007 4:42 pm
Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:42 pm
888 wrote:It really helps if the fuel is going to the carb. I had no idea there was a petcock under the tank, it was leaking like a sieve off of that glass bowl and I tightened the flare nut and it must have shut off the fuel supply. Mike came over tonight, saw it was turned the wrong way and off she went. Didn't even need starter fluid. Runs like a champ.
Actually, the petcock was open before and didn't start (remember my carb was dripping?) the marginal coil wire in the main harness that I found last night was the main electrical issue that was holding me back. That got me spark and Mike got me fuel.
I really really wanted to drive it around but it won't go into gear, there is a terrible gnashing of gear teeth when the engine is running.....but let's start another thread on that one~!
Well, at least I know how a lot of this thing is put together and wired up. Thanks to everybody for the suggestions and support and to Mike/Into Tractors for the visit and company.
Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:44 pm
Thu Aug 16, 2007 5:46 pm
Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:01 pm
Thu Aug 16, 2007 6:12 pm