How to load a 154 on a trailer.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 8:52 am

As some might have noticed I'm going to be buying Joe's (888) 154 with a stuck clutch. Has anyone ever used a 12v trailer hitch winch to load a tractor on a trailer before? Since I'm both borrowing a trailer and truck to move this tractor, I'm afraid I can't make any modifications to either.

Has anyone used a winch like this one?

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=43331&CategoryName=&SubCategoryName=

As I'm sure we all know, I'm not much of a trailersman at all, so I can use any hints or suggestions you might offer.

Thanks,

Lance

Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:02 am

The only thoughts on the winch I have is it's longevity. It'd be a great thing to have if it lasts a while. I'm skeptical of Harbor Freight stuff that has moving parts/electrical components that may not last. But I've heard many people having great luck with nail guns, etc from there. I think it's probably a crap shoot on what you get.

Angle of the ramps, trailer height, etc may need addressing, so bring a dozen or so blocks that you can use to add height if needed. And I know Cubs weigh less than 2000 lbs, but you can get 10,000 lb ratchet straps for a few dollars more than small straps, if you ain't got any yet. I like to know what I put on a trailer will stay put...

I'm sure others will have better insight than mine, so we'll see what I forgot!

Dave

Loading

Thu Aug 23, 2007 9:58 am

It also helps if you can over inflate the tires of the cub it will roll easier. I have seen a simple come-along hooked to the front of the trailer. I agree a lot of harbor freights stuff is not what I call dependable
Good Luck Joe

Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:03 am

Lance I live right down 128 from you. Where is Joe located? I have a trailer with a whinch attached. I may be able to give you a hand after this weekend. I am tied up with Gravelrama in Cleves all weekend.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 10:22 am

I have one similar to that I have used several times. Other than being slow, it occasioanly stops from heat, but after letting it set a while, it will go again. It shuts down even when empty. I have loaded a non running cub with the blade down, by pulling it backwards.

Re: How to load a 154 on a trailer.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:02 am

[quote]

As I'm sure we all know, I'm not much of a trailersman at all, so I can use any hints or suggestions you might offer.

Just make sure you leave plenty of stopping distance and make wide turns. And take it slow.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:06 am

I have one similar (came from Wally World several years ago) and have used it to load a Cub Lo-Boy (offset) and numerous dead Cub Cadets. You say you can't make any modifications to truck or trailer, how are you going to get power power for the winch to operate?

For a one time use with borrowed truck and trailer, I would just use a come-a-long and chain.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:55 am

Paul B wrote: You say you can't make any modifications to truck or trailer, how are you going to get power power for the winch to operate?
It gets power by clipping onto the truck battery, and I jsut dropped the bracket over the trailer jack when using mine.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 11:59 am

John - Does your winch go over the trailer ball, or do you bolt it to something else? I guess what I'm digging at, is can you have it and the trailer on the ball at the same time?

Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:06 pm

I used one called a super winch (made for a 5000lb boat) with heavy cable
hooked up to my truck battery to load a Ford 1947 2N with loaded tires and it worked great even had a driver on it while it went up(not me the seller). It did not strain or stop one bit but it was slow.
we did place the trailer at the lower part of a sloop to help it.
I Chained my winch to my trailers top rail (very heavy 2 inch pipe) and it was balanced on a 6 x 6 post that hold it level and it worked like a charm but it was a heavy duty model I picked up at a Yard sale for $20 not a bad deal Now I use it for my 23 foot Proline.
Goodluck
Tony

Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:51 pm

Paul's suggestion of a come-a-long is probably your best and easiest solution to a one time loading problem. Here's some other suggestions.

I'm not too keen on loading a trailer that isn't connected to a vehicle. Make sure the tow vehicle is rated for more than weight you're going to tow, include the weight of the trailer with the stuff on it, and the hitch is rated for the appropriate weight. About 15% of the total load weight needs to rest on the hitch to keep the trailer from swaying. Block up the rear of the trailer if you're driving something that's heavy - it may put enough upward force on the hitch to send the tow vehicle, trailer and partially loaded tractor on an uncontrolled joy ride. Chain the tractor to the strongest anchors available, not those little hooks screwed to the trailer's deck.

Better safe than sorry.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 2:19 pm

Lance
You can't hook the winch to the ball with the trailer connected, but you can chain the winch mount to the frame of the trailer, just run the chain thru the hole in the bracket that would normally fit over the ball, and then around the frame of the trailer. I would not try to load a tractor on any trailer that was not securely connected to a tow vehicle. If the trailer is small (or the tractor heavy) it should have some blocking of some type under the rear of the trailer to prevent the weight of the tractor from trying to lift the front of the trailer , during loading.

I forgot the winch originally came with spring clamps to attact the wiring to the battery. Mine has the power leads mounted on my trailer, and when in use the winch plate is then is connected to any one of more than twenty deck mounted, 11,000 lb "D" rings, that are bolted to the cross members, in two rows (plus more), the full length of my trailer (22').

And I still think a come-a-long would be your best bet for a one time use, or take barn yards offer to help you move it on his winch equipped trailer.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 3:02 pm

Lance, I bought a 1 ton from Sam's warehouse for about that same amount and have used it for five years. It will probably come with a separate, extra pulley (like a block and tackle?) that allows you to double the cable back to the front. That will allow it to pull it on much easier. If you decide to use a come-along, it will need to be unwound several times to get the tractor on. Each time you do that, you will need to block the wheels, and probably chain it so it won't want to roll while you reset the come-along. I've done that too, it works fine. Just a little slower and alot more work.

Bob

Thu Aug 23, 2007 3:10 pm

Thanks Paul. I would not have thought about the blocking. That makes perfect sense. I'll run by the TSC tonight and look at the come-a-longs. It is really temping to take barn yard up on his offer. I am a little further east of him (Liberty Township) and Joe is about 25 miles north of my house. Given the trouble Joe has gotten into about this 154, I'm kinda afraid to make him wait too long.

Thu Aug 23, 2007 3:11 pm

I loaded this non-running Cub with a come-along when I bought it at an auction. I even left it hooked on and used to tie it down.

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