3pt york rake fabrication.

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3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby BigBill » Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:58 pm

Fabricating attachments for the int154 cub with the 3pt hitch. I need a stiffer York rake to pull out brush and tree branches that are piled up in the back of my yard by the PO. I dug out some 1"x1" x 18" steel square stock and ran it thru my pipe bender so now i have 30 pieces of bent rake teeth ready to weld. I figure a 60" long piece of 2"x3" X 1/2" thick angle with the fork teeth welded 1 1/2" apart should work ok. Then i figure two 3/8" x 8" rails vertical towards the front for the 3pt hitch should do it boxed with channel inside and up for the top link. :idea:

I want something thats stronger so i can smooth out dirt roads too. :{_}:

My question is do i need to make it angle right and left? :?: anythoughts?
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: 3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby LiL' Red » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:49 am

Since it is a rake and not a blade I can't see any advantage to an angle adjustment. The reason you angle a blade is to roll material to one side or move it laterally. Since you have teeth and not a continuous surface what would the angle accomplish.
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Re: 3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby Rudi » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:15 pm

Sorry, but I disagree. There is ample reason for a rake to be capable of being angled not just in 2 or 3 positions but infinite. Make that puppy hydraulic. I have need for a rake a lot.. to keep the roads cleaned up nicely and cleaning my bush roads which accumulate a lot of orgainic materials. This is one case where an angled rake is useful. Also, it is useful when moving gravel especially if the tines are about 1" apart. It is surprising how much roll you will get with a rake. It is very nice to have one that can be angled. It is a great additon to a blade. Post pics as you go.. a nice how to maybe??? But I like the idea.
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Re: 3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby BigBill » Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:58 am

Ok making it angle it is. How about making it tip too(Right & Left?) if i use a pipe inside another on the draw bar making it tip would be easy too. It would be used for roughing in grades at first then once the grade is on an angle i can make the blade level because the tractor will sit level too. Just a thought.....

Ok i'll take some pics as i go. I'm about halfway in putting the tines on the angle. I'm also thinking since i have extra steel to fab one for my cub cadet too so i can hit the tight spots with the smaller tractor. I did notice in bending my tines in a pipe bender some are a tad off but putting a piece of angle behind them to connect each one and some rake tuning will put it all inline. I was thinking of using a smaller 3x3x1/4" angle across the rear about almost to were they bend. This would make it more ridgid too. Its made for heavy work.

I have a stone driveway to smoothout too plus some brush to get rid of.(in CT.) I found some snake sheds in some of the brush and i'd like to use the rake to pull it out. I have no clue whats living in there. I also have plenty of work for the rake in VT too. I need to cut new roads in the land and resurface the class 4 main road too. A class 4 road is a 4x4 trail but my subaru outback goes right in there. My land is solid timber untouched for many years.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: 3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby Rudi » Tue Apr 22, 2008 6:31 am

BigBill wrote:Ok making it angle it is. How about making it tip too(Right & Left?) if i use a pipe inside another on the draw bar making it tip would be easy too. It would be used for roughing in grades at first then once the grade is on an angle i can make the blade level because the tractor will sit level too. Just a thought.....


Bill:

That would be an excellent idea. That way you can straddle and angle rake a swale real easy. IMHO that is...

Ok i'll take some pics as i go. I'm about halfway in putting the tines on the angle. I'm also thinking since i have extra steel to fab one for my cub cadet too so i can hit the tight spots with the smaller tractor. I did notice in bending my tines in a pipe bender some are a tad off but putting a piece of angle behind them to connect each one and some rake tuning will put it all inline. I was thinking of using a smaller 3x3x1/4" angle across the rear about almost to were they bend. This would make it more ridgid too. Its made for heavy work.


Could you somehow, I know it is late.. take a pic of how you bent the tines? Are you going to case harden the steel for the tines as well, or just leave it?

I have a stone driveway to smoothout too plus some brush to get rid of.(in CT.) I found some snake sheds in some of the brush and i'd like to use the rake to pull it out. I have no clue whats living in there. I also have plenty of work for the rake in VT too. I need to cut new roads in the land and resurface the class 4 main road too. A class 4 road is a 4x4 trail but my subaru outback goes right in there. My land is solid timber untouched for many years.


Darn good use for a rake....
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Re: 3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby BigBill » Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:17 am

I'm a little slow at times(my health) but on a decent day i'll take pics so everyone will understand what i'm making.

My tines or rakes are 1" X 1" square steel stock by about 18" long. I bent them on a pipe bender. I'm going to put a back strap across the rear of the tines so there connected and made stronger.

My plan so far;

To make a york type rake that exceeds what you would call heavy duty. I need something that will break soft ground, rake gravel, smooth out dirt roads and pull out brush.

I want it to;

angle right and left
tilt sideways up and down
and tilt forward forward front and rear for aggressive raking(digging) or light raking.(light surface) Changing the angle of the tines will make it bite harder or less depending on how you tilt it. I came up with this idea while planning my ripper tooth for my int154 cub 3pt hitch. If we tilt the ripper tooth to the rear it will bite harder to pull out rocks. If i move it towards the front it will bite less to loosen up the soil around it. I purchased the ripper tooth from TSC and i'm welding it up with 2" X 3" x 1/2 thick wall angle doubled horzontial and doubled vertically. I have repaired so many rippers that were made strong enough, they just used one piece of angle.


I figure using a few tractors at the sametime will ease up the work that has to be done. I found out by sending my FCub in there first with the cultivators will pull up small roots and loosen the soil up. If the going gets tough i will have the 3pt ripper attachment too. I figure my int154 cub with this HD rake will be next inline to further loosen everything up and rake out the roots and rocks. Then i can go in there with my cub cadet 100 and till it up so i can get grass planted next.

And yes i'll take pics so you can see it as i go.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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Re: 3pt york rake fabrication.

Postby GILLES » Fri May 30, 2008 5:39 pm

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