Thu Jul 31, 2008 10:05 pm
What exactly constitutes a 185 power upgrade?
Thu Jul 31, 2008 10:25 pm
governor weights, camshaft, domed pistons and rods for them, head, manifold, and carb.
Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:29 am
Does this mean that the 185 came from the factory with the upgrade or was it aftermarket.
Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:33 am
185 came that way. The numbered series cubs incorporated most of those features to begin with, with the main change being the governor turned up so far as I know.
Fri Aug 01, 2008 9:58 am
My int154 has the 184 upgrade the PO did it when he rebuilt it and it has so much more power over my '52 FCub. If I ever rebuild my FCub I'll do the upgrade on it too. But my FCub has done everything i wanted it to do so far just with lower rpms. But i can see and feel the difference in HP.
Fri Aug 01, 2008 10:41 am
Ok next question there is going to be a 185 for sale locally at auction the latter part of sep.i need something bigger to mow with previous post have mentioned a few problems that occur with these mowers in checking out the mower what is the best way to look for problems.
PS.John from what i saw on TV the other night i think you should vote for the Steelman lady for Gov.of Mo.
Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:01 pm
ok. Thanks for the input. I have a brand new Zenith carb. And a lot of blowby. It gas knocks under a load real bad even on high octane gas. It starts great no choke even. But as grandpa said "it ain't got enough power to pull the hat ofn yo head."It pull a 4.5 foot disc ok but won't mow for nothin even in low range 1st gear. I am thinking timing or not advancing inder a load. Hep me.
Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:39 pm
I have a brand new Zenith carb. And a lot of blowby. It gas knocks under a load real bad even on high octane gas. It starts great no choke even. It pull a 4.5 foot disc ok but won't mow for nothin even in low range 1st gear. I am thinking timing or not advancing inder a load.
Complete tune up. Tune ups work wonders on tired engines.
Wed Aug 13, 2008 7:35 am
I noticed i need to keep my mower blades razor sharp on my cub. Dull blades take away a lot of HP and it gets worse with high grass. Yup a good tune-up and sharpen the blades should do it.
I'm using high test gas in all my power equipment with a little seafoam, it keeps my engines performing at there peak. By the second tank of gas you can really start to feel the difference with the seafoam too.
Wed Aug 13, 2008 2:14 pm
Ok wasn't "seafoam" a racehorse? ........... HAHAHAHAHAHA Seriously what is seafoam? And will a petronix ignition help a lot. I did put new points and plugs in when I had the engine out for a out of frame paintjob. I wonder if the timing is out of wack. She starts up good and runs smooth. One last question. How do you get those cool do-hickies in the far right column of the post. The little pictures of bears and serial plates etc. Thanks GT
Wed Aug 13, 2008 4:06 pm
Timing could be out of wack. If you haven't timed the engine - static time the engine first to see if things improve. Also check to see that the distributor drive gear (rotor) lines up with the #1 plug tower location as the points open when static timing.
SeaFoam is a solvent. Removes deposits in the fuel system and crankcase. Pretty good stuff.
Electronic igniton - won't help. No major advantage over a tune up - timed engine.
High test gasoline. Waste of money. No advanatage in low compression engines.
Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:27 am
We recently did a dyno test comparsion between point ignition and pertronix ignition, at Cub-fest. We checked the tune-up and timing, with timing light, then ran a baseline test on a 184 tractor. We then installed the pertronix unit, set the timing the same as the first test and ran a second test. After the second test, we installed the pertronix high output coil and ran a third test. All test were run back to back, within an hours time, to eliminate any weather concerns. The results were a surprise to everyone, myself included. While I had always thought that there might be a slight improvement with electronic, I thought it would be hard to prove. We were all amazed to see almost 10% improvement in both horsepower & torque. That set of dyno numbers is the highest yet on the Cub dyno. The high output coil made no measurable improvement.
Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:02 pm
Seafoam is a solvent/lubricant it removes the carbon deposits from the valve guides and lubes them while freeing up the stuck rings too. It also lubes/cushions the valve seats too. That prelongs valve life too. The engine will run smoother and perform better. I put it in the gas and in the crankcase oil.
This really works well on engines that have been sitting ilde for long periods of time. Time can be a killer more than high milage/heavy use. Things do dryup when they sit for long periods of time. The first things to get stuck or sticky are the valves and the rings.
Years ago we did this using Mobil Upper cylinder lube. We added it to the gas and sometimes squirted it into the carbuerator.
I believe in using any "upper lube" additive can improve an old engines performance.
So with electronic ignition its a 10% increase on the dyno so thats around a 1hp gain? Thats a big improvement on a low horsepower engine. So if it had 10hp to start with we now have 11hp. I'd be happy with that change.
Years ago with point ignitions on the race cars we would go to a higher output coil because the output voltage would drop at a high RPM on the standard coils. The standard coils were good for 5,000 rpm and below and were hitting 7,500 to 10,000rpm. Its probably something that wouldn't show up on the dyne but you know its there and can be a problem. We would also stiffen up the spring on the points too so they would have less point bounce. This was life before electronic ignition. We were using solid core ignition wires too, no carbon wires would hold up we would burn them out.
In the old days;
We played one day with spark plugs too on the old scopes. We sand blasted some old sparkplugs and wew opened up the gaps and filed the electodes flat/square again. We then closed up the gaps and gaped them and installed them and ran the car on the scope. The plugs showed no difference between new plugs or sand blasted plugs.
Now using additives;(food for thought)
When i worked for a car dealer back in the late 60's to 70's we would get a used car in with the hydraulic lifters tapping. We would change the oil and add in CD2 for lifters. It would quiet down the hydraulic lifters. This was a great additive for doing that. If your ever trading in a car with noisy lifters try it.
Sun Aug 31, 2008 10:17 am
Gary, When you ran those dyno tests was the original ignition done with solid copper wires and the electronic with resisitor wires? I believe the converstion calls for a wire change. Thanks Ted
Sun Aug 31, 2008 2:49 pm
Exhaust upgrade? I look at my int154 and the exhaust manifold has a reducer on it. What if you put a larger exhaust pipe/muffler on it? I wonder if we added the int154 manifold to an Fcub if the difference would be noticable to the operator and on the dyne too performance wise.
My int154 cub has the zenith carb and the PO says it also has the high compression pistons(184 setup) that were added when they rebuilt it. I just purchased an extra 154 exhaust manufold and an extra 154 hood to make the exhaust change and go vertical with the exhaust pipe/muffler too. Thats my plan right now.
I have a feeling when i refresh my fcub the motor is going to get ported too. I'm more interested in making it flow better over making the ports larger. Matching the ports to each other really matters too. I leave them rough too for mixing the gases nothing gets really polished. I even ported my log splitter engine years ago. I just took out the casting flaws inside the ports.
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