Sat Aug 09, 2008 12:03 pm
Done a bit of sorting on my recently acquired 154 with 1050 loader, belly mower and tiller.
Hoping someone might have some ideas on a few things.
The tractor serial #015788, so I think that makes it a 1970 year model.
I think the belly mower is an IH. No Woods markings and an "Identification #" sticker with 601-U-1111.
The tiller is identified with an IH deacal and an ID# 15-U-1111.
The loader hydraulics are powered by a pump that mounts to the PTO with a second pulley piggybacked (welded) to the mower drive pulley, so I can use both mower and loader without unmounting all the bits.
In order to run the tiller, though, I have to remove the pulleys for mower / loader to hook up to the PTO.
Here's a question:
I read somewhere here that the 3 pt. hydraulic cylinder runs on the tractor shared hydraulics with the belly mower lift. I think I see a simple "tee" in the line so both can operate, but have not figured out how to get the 3pt. cylinder (lift) to operate. The belly mower lift works ok.
Anybody got any ideas how this is supposed to work?
I actually got about an hour of tall grass mowing in with it last weekend.
Also, anyone got any ideas for a muffler? Mine is pretty much rusted away. New ones are stupid expensive for what they are. Workable substitutes?
Thanks very much!
Sun Aug 10, 2008 3:22 pm
how about a used muffler from hamilton bob on ebay and there should be a knob near the drive shaft tunnel that will divert the hydro to the 3 pt and to the belly mower also .
Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:28 pm
I am laughing now. You had to be laughing when you wrote that reply, or at least thinking "geez, this guy's a real moron".
I went down and crawled all around the tractor looking for said "knob", not realizing you meant the lever (mine is knobless) that operates the primary hydraulics for the mower and 3pt. lift. I had been using that already to raise, lower and float the mower deck. So I was tracing hydraulic lines from both the mower cylinder and 3pt. cylinder looking for some sort of "knob" attached to a valve that would divert fluid from the one cylider to the other. Obviously, I found none.
Then I got the idea that without any load on the 3pt., there would be no way to put pressure on the return lines to make it go down. Put my kid on it and tried the lever again. Ah Hah! It works the 3 pt. primarily and then the mower deck second priority. I assume that's how it was designed to operate?
Long story short, can't wait to hang the tiller on and fire it up. I am thinking it would be wise to secure the loader somehow (mechanically lock it) in an up position first, as once I remove the pump from the PTO to attach the tiller, if I have any leakdown at all, I've got no way to raise it back up, without removing the tiller and reconnecting the pump.
Thanks for the idea on the muffler. Had looked a couple times and not seen a muffler. I'll watch for one.
All the best.
Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:53 pm
if he does not have any on there just contact him and he will put one on there .
Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:33 am
You did not find a knob on your tunnel because the 3-point cylinder and the mower deck lift is just Tee'd together. On your machine, both operate at the same time. The one that drops first is the one with the most weight. It would probably be very helpful to install a diverter valve in place of the Tee so you can operate the mower and 3-point lifts independantly.
I do not have this option either but use a motorcycle tie-down to secure either the mower deck or the 3-point in the up position.
For the mower deck, connect the tie down between the rocker and the rear support for the mower deck. Ratchet tight and then "lower" the deck to aleviate the hydraulic pressure. The deck should stay raised.
Fri Aug 22, 2008 4:29 pm
Thanks for the "Diverter" valve vs. tee info. Any suggestions for exactly what to use and where to find one? Was this an IH option or after-market fix? Thanks
Mon Aug 25, 2008 7:05 am
It looks like IH had a couple of different setups for this, but all use the same valve. Perhaps the plumbing to the valve are a little different. The IH Part # for the valve is 531837R91. I would recommend checking out the service & parts catalog online.
Select the link for "Online Parts Catalog"
In the lower right corner select Begin your search "Right Here"
Enter 154 where it says model and click the search button.
Click the plus (+) next to 154 Gas Cub Tractor
Click the plus (+) next to Hydraulics
Click on the 10-14 Hydraulics Selector Valve
The drawing shown is CA02548A with the parts list below.
You may also have success at a tractor supply store if you find the right size valve and plumbing.
Mon Aug 25, 2008 10:00 am
Crack the hydraulic line at the 3 point cylinder and make sure that you have hydraulic flow. Be careful cause it will shoot everywhere. While you have the line off pickup the 3 point arms and make sure the cylinder isnt stuck. I had a cessna cylinder get stuck once and it was a booger to get apart. If your cylinder is stuck it might be bypassing in the valve.
Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:24 pm
I have a 184 which is vurtially the same tractor. I bought a hydraulic selector valve on e-bay. If you want I could pull the cover and snap a couple of pictures on how I hooked it up. The valve was optional. There should be a hole just in front of your shifter where the valve handle sticks through. It's just an in and out shuttle valve with I think 3/8"npt holes. I'll try to get some pics tonight.
Tue Aug 26, 2008 10:12 am
Here is another source, http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=73449F&WT.mc_id=gb1
I think mine is a Metro valve according to the writing cast in the side of the valve http://www.metromachine.com/hydraulics.htm
Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:40 pm
You can also find them at www.surpluscenter.com
too its were i buy all my hydraulic stuff.
Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:37 pm
BigBill, Great link! I wish I would have seen it before I bought mine! About half price!
Thanks for sharing,
Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:48 am
Wow! You all are just awesome!
Short of buying the valve and coming over to install it for me, you've done all the work.
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