Farmall Cub

I looked at my int154 flywheel on the C60 engine today and it appears to be cut out for the ring gear already. I think all i have to do is to heat the ring gear and drop it on. You need to keep a feeler gage and a brass punch ready incase the ring gear climbs up the flywheel as the gear cools a little so you can knock it back inplace before it cools off. The use the feeler gage to make sure the gear is exactly to the rear of the cutout on the flywheel. I use a .001" feeler gage for this. We also checked the ring gears in the differentials this way too so were sure there sitting even on the carriers. Since its cold outside right now its the time to cool the flywheel and heat the ring gear to assemble it. I need to get this done next so i can start the engine up to see how it sounds. Of course now is the time to refresh the engine too.

I got a starter from a 77 fcub for it too. I'm going to use the 1 wire conversion alternator kit from http://www.alternatorparts.com/ I just received there kit and it looks easy to do too. I've done the stator upgrades already from 60amp to 80amp in the past on my older GM trucks.

YEP that sounds just like the way Uncle Jim used to do it. He had a pretty big business back in the 70s. You know back when they actually worked on cars. Anyway he had an oven that he would heat ring gears and drive shaft yokes in to warm them up and drop them on the flywheel. Supposedly if you heat them with a torch it takes the temper out of those teeth and hence causing a repeat of the problem. If it is done right they just fall on! I suppose that a cub size ring would fit in mommas oven. You distract her and I will open the door! G

There's no problem heating them with a torch, you just keep the torch moving around the gear. You don't need to get them real hot, to drop right on.

Being a welder i know the metallurgy starts to change at just 400 degrees so i would set the oven on about 375 degrees to besafe. If using a torch you need a heat gun or the heat indicating temp sticks. We need to keep an eye on the temperature when heating things and keep the torch moving rather than make red spots on the ring gear. This can change the heat treating of the ring gear too.

Cooling the flywheel will help too. Then assemble the two parts quickly.

When i was building the cnc vertical turret lathes we would install tapered roller bearings this way and some were between 12" up to 30" in diameter. The cones would go in the freezer to -20 and the roller bearing would go in an oven with spot light bulb shaped "heat lamps" to heat it. We had to move quickly when installing the cones and then the heated bearing into the machine. The lathes i worked on had 36" to 144" chucks and weighed up to 200,000lbs.

I started taking the 154 apart and got a good close look at it finally. The "PO" jimmy rigged a 10si alternator with the starter /generator being supported on the outside of the hood by a wooden block. He let the s/g fall to the outside and stuck a 10si alternator inbetween the s/g and the engine. He did reduce the wrap of the belt on the s/g pulley so i'm not sure if it had enough traction to work. I took it all off and i'm sure i'll end up with a box of extra parts. I'm finding the 10si alternators are popping up all over the place lately too. I just ordered the 105amp 1 wire upgrade kit for it too. I figure with the 105amp's and a 1,000cca battery i'll never have a shortage of 12v power.

BigBill wrote:Being a welder i know the metallurgy starts to change at just 400 degrees so i would set the oven on about 375 degrees to besafe. If using a torch you need a heat gun or the heat indicating temp sticks. We need to keep an eye on the temperature when heating things and keep the torch moving rather than make red spots on the ring gear. This can change the heat treating of the ring gear too.

Cooling the flywheel will help too. Then assemble the two parts quickly.

When i was building the cnc vertical turret lathes we would install tapered roller bearings this way and some were between 12" up to 30" in diameter. The cones would go in the freezer to -20 and the roller bearing would go in an oven with spot light bulb shaped "heat lamps" to heat it. We had to move quickly when installing the cones and then the heated bearing into the machine. The lathes i worked on had 36" to 144" chucks and weighed up to 200,000lbs.

I started taking the 154 apart and got a good close look at it finally. The "PO" jimmy rigged a 10si alternator with the starter /generator being supported on the outside of the hood by a wooden block. He let the s/g fall to the outside and stuck a 10si alternator inbetween the s/g and the engine. He did reduce the wrap of the belt on the s/g pulley so i'm not sure if it had enough traction to work. I took it all off and i'm sure i'll end up with a box of extra parts. I'm finding the 10si alternators are popping up all over the place lately too. I just ordered the 105amp 1 wire upgrade kit for it too. I figure with the 105amp's and a 1,000cca battery i'll never have a shortage of 12v power.

You can safely take that ring gear up till it starts to turn blue without changing the hardness of the teeth. Which is more than needed, straw color will get you plenty of expansion. Heat from the inside of the ring, don't put the flame on the teeth.