Farmall Cub

I now have my clutch and clutch drive assembly together. I haven't been able to get the frame welded yet. I was looking things over looking for other problems and found another. I need to remove the left final drive assembly to remove a broken bolt. I have a parts manual and service manual. It looks like I only need to get a seal for the differential shaft. Does the axle housing use a gasket? Neither book shows one. It is amazing how the transmission stayed in the frame. I have a broken right frame rail and the two lower front bolts were broken also. Plus, this bolt on the left side of the final drive. No wonder it developed a clutch and clutch driveline failure. I don't see how the previous owner could not know there was a problem. I would think that you could feel the rear end was loose.

No gasket is used. the oil in the final and tranny are both contained by seals.

SPIT the answer is spit I have lots of equipment held together with spit .

I wonder if we should put a thin layer of clear silicone just to keep the water from getting in there? I also think it would keep the seals much cleaner too. Water can work its way thru every nook and cranny if you let it.

The finals have drains to let any leaking oil out, as a standard cub does don't they? be sure not to seal them.

Thanks guys. The more I look the more I find. I would like to quit looking but I can't. I want it to be right.

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:The finals have drains to let any leaking oil out, as a standard cub does don't they? be sure not to seal them.

Yes there are slots for the brake rods just like the fcub has. I figure by putting a very thin layer of silicone over the top two thirds or from opening to opening would be like using an umbrella to keep the water out if its stored outside. Water, snow & ice can sure cause trouble in ever nook and cranny when there stored outside. This is why there is so much rust inside the extention tube on the right drive shaft on the fcubs its from the sepage of rain water, ice of snow getting in there. Using just a little clear silicone will solve this.

I would not recommend the use of any silicone.

I got the final drive off today. It was a piece of cake. First I pulled off the Woods bracket from the trans assembly. Next I put the trans on its back with the wheels still on. Then I put a floor jack towards the left side enough to balance the assembly so I could remove the left wheel. Then I removed the wheel and unbolted the final drive assembly. Then I slid it off carefully. The cavity between the transmission case and the final drive was completely rust free. It had some grass clippings in it but that was it. I removed the broken bolt and put it back together. Hopefully I wont regret not putting in a new seal. The seal looked good so I lubricated the shaft and seal and carefully slid the shaft into the differential. The hardest part was trying to keep the assembled rear end upright while putting the Woods bracket back on. It took a few tries to get it lined back up. I think the whole thing took about an hour to do. Now I need to get my welding buddy to do his part. As far as putting any silocone in the area between the final drive and the transmission case I personally don't see any reason to do so. I know opinions vary. Now you have mine.