Farmall Cub

I'm trying to figure out what my rebuilding costs will be;

New rings, new bearings, gaskets, seals, oil pump parts ect. Total $390.00

I can hone the cylinders and grind the valves. If my pistons and the boes are ok its under $400.

Sorry i left out the complete tune up and carb kit. But for just under $500 isn't too bad for a rebuilt engine.

BigBill wrote:I'm trying to figure out what my rebuilding costs will be;

New rings, new bearings, gaskets, seals, oil pump parts ect. Total $390.00

I can hone the cylinders and grind the valves. If my pistons and the boes are ok its under $400.

Sorry i left out the complete tune up and carb kit. But for just under $500 isn't too bad for a rebuilt engine.

That sounds like a good deal to me, your putting in the sweet equity and coming out with a like new engine. If you have a sound block and the cylinders can be honed without to much trouble that's half the battle. Hows the crank? Does it mike to speck? That and the piston rods would be my main concern. If all the main parts are in good shape then that's a wrap.
Good luck with the engine rebuild and lets see some photos.

This fall I'm pulling my engine out of the 154 that we rebuilt the back end in and rebuilding it, so I'm interested in how you make out with your C60.

I figured the new crank bearings in already but i have 3 cranks to mic yet. Its only $50 thats $10 per journal to grind the crank undersize if i have to grind. I have a std size set of dome pistons with rods sitting here. I have that option too if the bores are std size.

I didn't figure in cutting the head to clean it ( about .010") nor decking the block to clean it either(.010"). I'll check it with a straight edge first (starret).

Right now the engine turns over but i haven't started it up. I was just going to pull it out but maybe i should hear it run anyway so i'm sure what i'm rebuilding. (no funny noises or knocks)

This tractor is getting an FEL so i won't pull an egine out later working around the FEL I just flat out refuse to do it later so i would like to rebuild it first. I'm looking at my options and maybe what the lowest and maximum cost could be. But we never know until we open it up and see what it looks like inside.

If the block and bores are ok even with turning the crank i'm looking at around $500 with the max being up to $1,000 or a little under. I'd rather do it right than do it cheap. I just like hearing it purr after its done right.

I have to go and clean off the bottoms of my shoes, i must have stepped in something somewhere....

When i purchased this tractor the distributor was out and the drive pin in the gear is mia. The engine turns over pretty tight. It felt that good. My son removed the sheetmetal on the tractor and pulled the head off the engine today. The pistons were decarboned and a new head gasket was installed. A closer look i have the domed pistons already in the engine with great looking bores with no ridge at the top of the cylinder at all. So far it looks like a gasket set, with new rings and bearings. I'll clean up the valves and lap them too. The next step is to pull the engine and look at the crank. The oil looks like it was just cheaned too its squeeky clean. This tractor appears to have been sitting a long time too. I went by my gut feeling when i purchased it and got lucky again.... I have to order a ball hone now to deglaze the cylinders. BB

My c60 cost by professional shop was $565 + my parts. Gasket set rings and rod bearings approximately $300. Give or take. I ended up with extra seals and some gaskets (wich I call sell) so I’m looking at around $800. For the rebuild.
Head and block planed (head was warped .015!) honed, washed,valves and seats ground. Short block reassembled.
I didn’t think that was to bad.

My first two cars were flat heads. It has been a long time but
Great that you have invested in doing it right.

Really these are great engines and they just don't make them anymore. Old tech sure bologna. They have a pedigree of near a century. Somebody cared for them and patted their tractor after long hard work. In that tractor was the C60. Certain things are different. We must be wary of the fuel and also maintain the proper antifreeze. These are not huge tractors, as tractors go but by golly, you can still move them by hand. You can turn the rear wheels and move the whole thing up an incline, into the garage. You just cant do that with heavier tractors.
There is a certain spot which has been fulfilled for at least..heck you know, why say it.

I just had mine rebuilt. Had to go .040 over on cylinders, .010 under on mains and rods, had to remove 2 head bolts, new valves and seats, block dipped, and decked. With supplying the rebuild kit, labor was $600. Didn't think that was too bad at all

Als wrote:My c60 cost by professional shop was $565 + my parts. Gasket set rings and rod bearings approximately $300. Give or take. I ended up with extra seals and some gaskets (wich I call sell) so I’m looking at around $800. For the rebuild.
Head and block planed (head was warped .015!) honed, washed,valves and seats ground. Short block reassembled.
I didn’t think that was to bad.

That doesn't sound too bad.

Fordman wrote:I just had mine rebuilt. Had to go .040 over on cylinders, .010 under on mains and rods, had to remove 2 head bolts, new valves and seats, block dipped, and decked. With supplying the rebuild kit, labor was $600. Didn't think that was too bad at all

Not bad.

I will be facing that someday and have to make a decision. Decades of decisions and Lo Boys going cheap. Lo Boys going expensive too. Who is lasting to tell us how great they were? They were replaced by larger tractors. Okay they sucked in comparison but which mowed all those years before that. Dang for a few acres, a much better mower tractor. I harmed a few smaller because they just can't take it.