Mon Jun 29, 2009 2:11 pm
I need to remove the steering wheel to get to the magnetic switch.
What type of puller is required?
Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:09 pm
Welcome to the Forum.
What magnetic switch are you refering to? The starter solenoid can be accessed by removing the two side panels under the dash.
Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:23 pm
The two side panels under the dash do not provide access the the starter solenoid. I need to remove the steering wheel to remove the dash panel to access the solenoid.
The steering wheel on my 154 (circa 970) is plastic. I removed the nut under the cover, however the wheel is frozen.
Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:32 pm
I have not removed the steering wheel on either one of my 154's because of the same fear that you have over the plastic steering wheel. But I have changed out several starter solenoids on these tractors by removing the panels to gain access.
If I had to remove the wheel, I would find a three jaw puller with wide flanges to minimalize the damage to the plastic. Or try to use a bearing puller to fully surround the back of the wheel. This would be after weeks of soaking with penetrant.
Good luck, let us know how it works out.
Mon Jun 29, 2009 8:09 pm
You should be able to get to the solenoid with out removing the steering wheel. The way to remove the wheel is to take off the center nut, sit in the seat and place your knees under the wheel and push up with your feet. Just rock the foot upwards and you will be able to put great pressure on the wheel without risking breaking the wheel. It is on a splined shaft and is tight but not frozen. You may need to put some blocks under your feet if not tall enough. I have crouched with my knees under the wheel and my hands pulling up n the wheel. When it comes loose it will be very quick and the wheel will jump upwards. I went over the back of the seat and landed in slow motion on the concrete below so be careful. If need be you can gently tap on the top of the shaft with the butt end of a hammer, the wood not the metal head, while pushing up with your feet. Do not hammer on the shaft with metal or the threads will be damaged. Be careful of a puller, you may break the plastic. This method has never failed me with either a 154 wheel or the similar cub cadet wheels.
Tue Jun 30, 2009 1:29 pm
How were you able to access the top nut on the starter switch from the side panels?
Tue Jun 30, 2009 7:44 pm
I just tore down my late 60's int154 and removed the steering wheel. I drilled and tapped two 1/4-20 threaded holes in the metal part of the steering wheel so a puller could be used. It popped off no problem with the puller.
Wed Jul 01, 2009 9:29 am
I was wrong. I pulled the side panels off my 154 and there is no way I could get to the starter solenoid. I was thinking of a narrow frame cub cadet. If you have no interest in the cosmetics of the wheel then use a puller. Otherwise use your knees to provide upwards pressure while tapping downward on the shaft with a block of wood or brass hammer. I also thought you could get two 2X2s and place sideways under the hub of the wheel with one end resting on the edge of the fiberglass dash. Pull upwards on the other ends. Careful not to pull too hard or you may crack the fiberglass dash but you should be able to get a good bit of pressure. The key is upward pressure on the wheel while tapping downward on the shaft. The threads will damage easily so definitely do not use a piece of steel to pound on the shaft, use wood or a brass hammer.
Wed Jul 01, 2009 5:42 pm
Thank you for all the advise. I had to cut the steering wheel off since all other efforts failed. A new one will be in next week.
Wed Jul 01, 2009 6:22 pm
The soleniod is difficult to get to, but not impossible, from under the dash through the side panels. I removed the panels from both of my tractors today and was able to get to all the nuts. I wanted to make sure that they both were in the same spot and in their original locations. I can squeeze my hand through the 'tight spot' between the fuel tank support and the hyd lever bar. Once past the tight spot, I have free movement to take the wires off and remove the two nuts holding the solinoid to the tractor. Like I said, its difficult but not impossible.
Maybe I am the only one with contortionist monkey hands.
Steve, where did you order your new steering wheel from? Is it original looking or just something to turn the tractor?
Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:25 am
Doesn't the cub cadet steering wheels fit the int154? They do have the same size nut and the spline taper looks the same. I been grabbing the newer cub cadet steering wheels from ebay. I got one thats very soft for the wifes tractor.
I'll get a pic of my drilled holes for pulling the steering wheels. There under the center cap next to the steering shaft in the metal part of the steering wheel. I did notice on one steering wheel / shaft the splines appear to be gone. I was thinking of putting a dutchman on this one to make it work.
A dutchman is drilling a hole between the steering wheel and the shaft and installing a dowel to loc the steering wheel to the shaft. I've done this in many thread applications on some machines too. Or i can replace the steering wheel and clean up the splines on the shaft too. We do have options.
Thu Jul 09, 2009 9:08 am
Sorry for the delay, I was away for July 4th.
I ordered the steering wheel($137.26) from a Case dealer here in NJ (Storr Tractor Co.). The part number is 404601R1. I also got a new grommet(376254R1) and bushing(400501R1). It does look similar to the original and is made in the USA.
Removing the dash was the only way to access the top mounting bolt and wire terminals on the switch.
Tue Jun 08, 2010 2:00 pm
I read this thread becuase I am getting ready to replace the dash on my 154. It sopunds to me like the best way is to pull up on the steering wheel with your knees while tapping on the spindle downward. Is that right?
How do you remove the IH Center Cap from the wheel?
Wed Jun 09, 2010 6:12 am
To show how tuff some steering wheels are to get off, I had a stuck one that I gave up on trying to save the wheel. I hooked a chain around the steering wheel and used a heavy boom poll one the back of my 46 HP tractor to lift upward. The tractor lifted off the groung with no relaese. I cut it off!
Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:44 am
I drilled and tapped two 1/4-20 threaded holes in the metal area of the steering wheel and used a steering wheel puller to get one off. Some do come off with a blow from the bottom side with a dead blow hammer.
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