IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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I just got a 154 as some may seen over on the cub board. It's an interesting tractor with quite a few differences from the fcub.
Best I can figure, the tractor last ran in 2003, but was parked in a shed, with the hood and radiator removed. The lady I got it from husband passed away shortly afterward, and she had no idea what might be wrong with it. After two full days of tinkering with it, I got it running really well. No engine issues apparent, and I was able to get the "Tell lite" to work....so it has some oil pressure. The clutch/brake was tough to figure out, but I found good info here and the owners manual, got all the adjustments made, and now goes in gear. The PTO works....which from reading is a big plus. The not so good.......the hydraulic cylinder that raises the deck leaks down fairly quick. It will need new front tires and rims. The throttle cable is broke, and owner replaced with a push/pull PTO cable.....it's functional, but........The wiring seems to be original and is still in good shape, but all the lights have either broke lens or brackets,(rear). The front grill has had some fiberglass work that need a little attention. The most puzzling problem so far has been the generator. I can't get it to work at all. I've tried polarizing it. (Switch on, jumper from BATT to GEN), but got no spark. I'll spend tomorrow trying to sort through that issue. All in all, I got a great deal on it and plan to keep it as a work tractor. Mowing and light yard duty mostly. I'll dress it up a little though.
Harold, being that it has the starter on there, the wiring has been changed a little bit. I would look over the wiring again and take a voltmeter and start at the genny and work back. If all is set up properly (clutch and PTO), these tractors will make you a pretty good addition to the homestead. Remember to use the clutch and brake at the same time when stopping.
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Thanks Raymond. I read some more last night, (this forum), and it does seem to be a problem stopping the tractor with just the fly wheel brake. I'm sure it's not meant to handle all that forward momentum. Interesting engineering for sure. Your comment about the starter makes sense now, as I also read where the 154 didn't come with a conventional starter from the factory. (Maybe just the early models?) I get 12volts to the BATT terminal on the regulator from the switch. The fuse for the lights has been removed, with the two wires still in place, so maybe there needs to be continuity there?? I've got a diagram....so I'll sort through it. Thanks in advance for any tidbits anybody may have.
The throttle cable on the 154 was rusted out also, must hold moisture in the cable sleeve. Sounds like it is coming together well for you.
From what I read the clutch fingers are usually worn out form not having any lubrication at the pivot points. The finger pivots on the 154 I had were worn so badly that I shimmed all the bolts with a washer to actually get some disengagement of the clutch. I checked on a pressure plate and it is only $85.00.
The hydraulic is gravity down so your cylinder seals are probably leaking by internally, should be a rebuild kit available.
Hold onto that front grill shrowd, you should be able to repair the fiberglass and a new one is big bucks.
I had a 60" deck on mine, suprised to see the woods on yours.
1953 Cub, Sickle Mower, 42" Mower, Cultivators, 189 Double Plow, 54 Blade, Grader Blade
1968 Lo-Boy w/1000 Loader, 1957 Lo-Boy w/FH, FH Disc, FH Potato Plow.
The generator is now working. There's a trouble shooting flow chart on the forum here that popped up when I searched for polarization. Anyhow, I followed it down to the very end where it said the generator wasn't working. After disassembling it, I found this.
I replaced them and cleaned the armature up, and now.
I don't know the numerical value, but it's on the plus side, at just above an idle. Full throttle and it almost pegs and the slowly falls back. Seems it's working alright. Chalk up another problem solved by using the advice of the forum members.
I purchased a universal throttle cable at tractor supply for $6 its for a push mower so its longer. I used the 154 orginal cable housing and installed the new inside wire into it. I lubed the wire a little too. If your orginal lever and cable housing is ok its a cheap fix.
They say to adjust the flywheel brake and clutch in sync. You need the flywheel brake pucks to have .010" clearance when the clutch pedal is all the way up. Then the clutch throw out bearing should have .090" clearance at the fingers at this time too then its right.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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