I found these instructions and pictures at another website - they were contributed by Barry_s_u on May 8, 2004. I thought that they might be of use to some of you here. NJDale - Copied & Pasted;
First of all, find out if you have a 154, 185, or 184. The 184s were
always red and have an electri PTO toggle switch on the dash, the 154
and 185 were white/yellow with a mechanical PTO lever to the left of
the seat. IF you really have a 154 or 185 you can read the treatise
on roto-cam, below. If you have a 184, someone else needs to respond
since I am not familiar with the electric PTO.
Roto-Cam PTO Clutch sticking or slipping....for 154 or 185 tractors...
You probably need to re-build the roto-cam PTO clutch at the back end
of the tractor. I just did this and your symptoms are consistent with
either too tight a disc pack, badly chewed up friction discs, or a
cracked PTO output shaft.
You can remove the PTO clutch easily to examine it by pulling any
pulley guard off the back of your tractor, remove the pulley and pull
off the larger panel held on by three bolts (one on each side and one
at the top behind the seat). Once that's off, you can easily see the
PTO clutch assembly. It fits into a "cup" that's at the end of the
intermediate PTO shaft. You can remove the actuating arm at this
point and remove the 3 - 3/4" bolts that hold the assembly to the
tractor. Depending on how the other part of the roto-cam actuating
disc is held in place (either by a pin or a loose bolt/nut - to allow
freedom of movement to prevent binding) you should be able to pull
the PTO assembly straight back out of the tractor.
Your Case/IH dealer or cub cadet dealer should be able to get you the
Roto-cam rebuild kit complete with (crappy) instructions. You would
be best to follow the instructions as much as possible after
carefully removing the parts by pulling off the spring clip that
holds everything on the output shaft. This clip is at the end that
fits into the cup on the intermediate shaft.
Another possible reason for your problem is a cracked output shaft. I
had a cracked shaft and found another one (used) after searching the
internet. The discs for the roto-cam have to slide freely on the
output shafts 4 splines. If the shaft is cracked (usually at the
thinner slotted areas of the splines, it will expand slightly and
prevent the separator discs and pressure discs from moving.
Pull it apart and all this will be easily visible and you will see
how it all works.
I've rebuilt these a couple times and an important factor is getting
enough shims in to make sure that the pack (pressure plate-to-
pressure-plate) dimension varies by .050" when the pack roto-cam is
completely disengaged to when it is competely engaged.
When the clutch is disengaged (friction plates and separator discs
move freely) the dimension may be 1.25 inches. When you engage the
clutch (mashing the friction discs and separator plates together) the
distance should be 1.25 - .05 = 1.2 inches. If the pack compresses
less than this (so that the compressed distance is 1.22" for
example), there are too many shims in and the pack may stick and try
to drive the output shaft when disengaged. If the pack compresses
more than this (for example to 1.17") the pack is too loose and the
separator discs and friction discs may rotate within the pack when
driving a load. This will cause significant heating and eventually
roto-pac clutch failure. Measure carefully. There are an appropriate
number of shims provided with the kit. You should also keep the shims
from the old pack in case they are needed later.
I bought this repair kit from the H.B Duvall (Case/IH/Cub Cadet
dealer)in Frederick, MD last weekend for about $117.
Sorry this was so long, hope it helps.
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