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184 Driveshaft

IH CUB Lo-Boy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Lo-Boy related issues.
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outdoors4evr
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Posts: 2783
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
Zip Code: 48370
Tractors Owned: 184
Location: Oxford, MI

184 Driveshaft

Postby outdoors4evr » Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:32 pm

I took a cover off the 184 and now am spending $$$ on it. (stupid idea) :evil:
I removed the clutch and flywheel to fix an oil leak (rear main seal) and noticed how worn the driveshaft splines were at the clutch.
CIH does not have a driveshaft to fit because the tractor has a creeper. They can order the regular length though.

Is there any way the splines can be replaced by a machine shop?
Should I purchase the regular length driveshaft and have it shortened by a machine shop?

Any recommendations on who might do this sort of work? (Seems like a lot of lathe and mill work)
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade

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Gary Dotson
Team Cub Mentor
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Posts: 5609
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 6:20 am
Zip Code: 43358
Tractors Owned: 48 Cub Diesel (Cubota)
53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
52 Cockshutt 20 unrestored
47 Leader "B" (Herckie)
49 Leader "D" (Princess)
49 Leader "D" very rough
48 Leader "D" unrestored
Kubota B6200E
Kubota B6200HST
Kubota B8200HST-D
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH West Mansfield

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby Gary Dotson » Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:11 am

I think your best bet is to get the standard length shaft and shorten it. A machine shop will easily cut in a new keyway. How's the u-joint? If it's worn, NAPA has a joint kit that fits, if you need, I'll get you the part number. you didn't mention the pilot bearing, but it's a very common & inexpensive 6202 ball bearing, you should put in a new one. On the main seal, I've found that even on the later tractors, such as the 184, that loose seal fit can be a problem, just as it is in the earlier tractors. I did a main seal on a 184 a couple weeks ago and the seal fell out of the retainer when I removed it. The best solution is to get a re-machined retainer from Phil Lenke, which will include the proper oversized seal, if you encounter this issue.

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b52c130
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Zip Code: 07869
Location: Randolph, NJ

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby b52c130 » Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:22 am

Gary,
If you come across that NAPA part number for the 184 main drive shaft universal joint, I would appreciate it if you could pass it along. I don't need one right now, but for the future, I would like to post it into my file of information. Mostly, the NAPA parts seem to be very good quality and a lot less expensive that the CaseIH parts.
Thanks, NJDale

Gary Dotson
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 5609
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 6:20 am
Zip Code: 43358
Tractors Owned: 48 Cub Diesel (Cubota)
53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
52 Cockshutt 20 unrestored
47 Leader "B" (Herckie)
49 Leader "D" (Princess)
49 Leader "D" very rough
48 Leader "D" unrestored
Kubota B6200E
Kubota B6200HST
Kubota B8200HST-D
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH West Mansfield

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby Gary Dotson » Tue Apr 27, 2010 7:08 am

NAPA # is P338. This is a needle bearing joint, the original is not. Also, I think Case IH only sells it as a complete assembly, yes it's expensive.

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b52c130
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Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 4:35 pm
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Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby b52c130 » Wed Apr 28, 2010 10:16 am

Outdoors4evr,
There is a guy on ebay, Lakeview Industrial Sales - precision2m - that sells brand new machined drive shafts for the numbered cubs. They are made from 4140 alloy steel. He currently has one listed on ebay for about $200, but it is for a 154 & 185 with creeper drive. See attached link;

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Drive-Shaft-Cub ... 4398e7fb2a

You should contact him - He might be able to make exactly what you need.

Hope that this helps, NJDale

outdoors4evr
10+ Years
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Posts: 2783
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
Zip Code: 48370
Tractors Owned: 184
Location: Oxford, MI

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby outdoors4evr » Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:53 am

I did replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel and the pricey throwout bearing as well.
Phil Lenke did the machining work on the rear seal retainer. The new seal fit very well. I spent a lot of extra time cleaning and greasing the end of the crank.
The U-Joint is in good shape. I will not be replacing this at this time.

A local machine shop thinks they can shorten and turn down the driveshaft and cut the keyway for about $50-$75 USD. They have done a few already for others who had a 154 which is a little different. I will provide them with both the new $250 long driveshaft from CNH and the original.
Are there any improvements that can be done to reduce or eliminate the spline wear?
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade

Gary Dotson
Team Cub Mentor
Team Cub Mentor
Posts: 5609
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2006 6:20 am
Zip Code: 43358
Tractors Owned: 48 Cub Diesel (Cubota)
53 Cockshutt 20 restored (Shooter)
52 Cockshutt 20 unrestored
47 Leader "B" (Herckie)
49 Leader "D" (Princess)
49 Leader "D" very rough
48 Leader "D" unrestored
Kubota B6200E
Kubota B6200HST
Kubota B8200HST-D
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: OH West Mansfield

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby Gary Dotson » Sat May 01, 2010 7:25 am

I haven't seen a problem with excessive spline wear, but I've only had a couple of them apart. Make sure your clutch disc is in good condition and put a light coat of grease on the splines. I don't of anything else you can do for it. Yes, that throw out bearing is a pricey little devil. I tried to come up with a bearing to fit the carrier, but ended up buying the assembly. A while back, someone posted on here that there is a bearing that fits, I don't remember what the application was.

outdoors4evr
10+ Years
10+ Years
Posts: 2783
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2008 12:44 pm
Zip Code: 48370
Tractors Owned: 184
Location: Oxford, MI

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby outdoors4evr » Sat May 15, 2010 5:16 pm

OK. I have the 184 back together again, but am having difficulty getting everything adjusted properly.
Everything seems to work fine, but when I take the tractor out of gear, the driveshaft starts turning. The friction is not enough to propel the tractor when in gear, but I don't want to grind the gears. I have tried the following:

Verify all of the clutch fork throws. Throwout bearing is as close as possible to the pressure plate without contact.
Use the tractor some (exercise the clutch) hoping to "wear it in".
Loosen all of the clutch mounting bolts 1/2 a turn and briefly run the tractor while exercising the clutch in hopes that the clutch will "find its home". Then re-tighten the bolts.

It just seems like the pilot bearing, clutch, and creeper are not lining up well. (I have not moved the engine or trans)
Any ideas?
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade

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b52c130
10+ Years
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Posts: 188
Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2008 4:35 pm
Zip Code: 07869
Location: Randolph, NJ

Re: 184 Driveshaft

Postby b52c130 » Sun May 16, 2010 7:57 am

Outdoors,
Someone, somewhere - with a similar problem - had suggested loosening the two set screws on the universal joint (at the rear of the drive shaft) and then running everything (clutch in/out - gear in/out) until everything finds it lateral home (fore/aft), and then re-tightening.
Don't know if it will work or not - good luck, NJDale


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