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stationary running question

IH CUB Lo-Boy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Lo-Boy related issues.
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arthurpbloom
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stationary running question

Postby arthurpbloom » Sun May 30, 2010 9:38 am

Can the 154 be run (idled) as a stationary power source without overheating the engine? I want to use mine as a generator to power a few low current devices, (just lamps, no motors) during our weekly power outages.

The reason for my concern is the fact that the 154 engine does not have a water pump.

Can an electric or mechanical water pump be added easily? Has anyone here tried to install one, for whatever reason?

The 154 is mobile, quiet, and uses minimal fuel, so it's a great candidate for a generator power source.
Last edited by arthurpbloom on Sun May 30, 2010 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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DanBuckman
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Re: staionary running question

Postby DanBuckman » Sun May 30, 2010 11:06 am

I plan to add a water pump to my 154 at some time.
The motor has lots of blow by and a rod knock so I'm guessing it's days are numbered.
The water pump should fix every thing.

Just a few minor details on how to make the Kubota D722 motor it's attached to fit and I'll be all set.

As for using the cub as a stationary power source,, given it gearing that's pretty much what it is. You don't get much extra wind cooling at 2mph. Even if your travel is up wind.

arthurpbloom
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Re: stationary running question

Postby arthurpbloom » Sun May 30, 2010 12:19 pm

You're a funny guy.

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beaconlight
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Re: stationary running question

Postby beaconlight » Sun May 30, 2010 9:40 pm

Heck yes. I would have no problem using a Cub of any type running a generator Think you really mean Alternator) for power outages. Only draw back is small HP engines only tush low Watt "generators.
People (ME INCLUDED) say a back up generator when it is really an alternator we need to back up lost commercial power. You need a transfer switch to make sure you are not putting power out into the power co grid. First reason is you can't supply enough to run the whole town with out burning up your machine. Second is for the safety or the power restoration crew.

Yes there are ways with out the transfer switch. I say don't even think about it for the average person.

Edit to add the fan will provide enough cooling not to boil over with a properly sized alternator.
Bill

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arthurpbloom
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Re: stationary running question

Postby arthurpbloom » Sun May 30, 2010 10:02 pm

Thanks for the advice about the transfer switch. I am a licensed electrician, so I'm aware of the concerns.

I probably will use a single-wire heavy-duty Delco 12 Volt alternator, driven off the PTO, and use it to float a bunch of 12 Volt truck batteries. LED's will be the lamps of choice, since they draw so little current. I will install low-voltage wiring to feed them.

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bob in CT
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Re: stationary running question

Postby bob in CT » Mon May 31, 2010 5:36 am

Standard Cubs have run generators and buzz saws for years with the same engine and cooling system. If your tractor is in good condition, you will not have any problems. Have you ever flushed the block per factory recommendations? I am talking about getting a wand up inside the block to flush the crud out of the upper cylinder area- not pouring a bottle of elixir in the radiator.

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Re: stationary running question

Postby HAMILTONBOB » Mon May 31, 2010 9:25 am

Check out the Detroit Craiglist for "Farmall Cub Power Unit ". Guess these were used for different power applications, like runnune an alternator.

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beaconlight
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Re: stationary running question

Postby beaconlight » Mon May 31, 2010 10:15 am

Heck I was thinking 110/220. Ok you understand my concern for a transfer switch as a licensed Electrician.
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Re: stationary running question

Postby BigBill » Mon May 31, 2010 11:24 am

I been picking up the 6 bladed fans for the 154's when i see them. I plan on replacing the 4 bladed fans on two of my three 154's. I been mowing in the hot weather the past few years and it never over heated so i'm sure you can run a attachment form the PTO while the tractor sits ldle anyway. There isn't much air going thru the radiator when the tractor is moving because it isn't moving that fast so we have to count on a snug fan belt in good condition to keep it running cool. You don't need a water pump because it will suck away what little HP we have to begin with.

The 154's/cubs need to be properly tuned, carb adjusted, timing set, oil changed/filter and a clean air filter and these will run forever. The engines wearing out is mainly because of lack of maintenance and not using the proper grade motor oil for the outside temps. Remember 30wt is for the warmer/hot weather and you need to run a lighter grade motor oil like 10/30 or 10/40 in the winter time. If you have a good engine and its stored outside in the cold temps i would run a 5/30wt or a 10/30wt minimum. The thicker oil in a cold climate takes a longer time to flow and heat up. The engine will run on no oil for a while if the oil is a 30wt in the winter time. This causes a lot of engine problems in the future. If you think i'm wrong just read your owners manual.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: stationary running question

Postby BigBill » Mon May 31, 2010 11:31 am

Bob in CT wrote:Standard Cubs have run generators and buzz saws for years with the same engine and cooling system. If your tractor is in good condition, you will not have any problems. Have you ever flushed the block per factory recommendations? I am talking about getting a wand up inside the block to flush the crud out of the upper cylinder area- not pouring a bottle of elixir in the radiator.


Bob/guys/gals; Most of the rust i've seen in many engine is sediment at the bottom of the cylinder walls, there is no rust particals/sediment at the top of the cylinders. I've even removed water pumps in the older 6 cylinder engines and found gobs of rust just sitting there. I think it was mainly caused in the older cars when they would change the water coolant to the winter anti freeze every season. The rust would just build up. This was the norm before the permament anti-freeze was available.

If my coolant is clean and a bright green i don't touch it. If your seeing a lot of rust you need to add a rust inhiberter with the new anti freeze after you flush the system.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Re: staionary running question

Postby BigBill » Mon May 31, 2010 11:39 am

[quote="DanBuckman"]I plan to add a water pump to my 154 at some time.
The motor has lots of blow by and a rod knock so I'm guessing it's days are numbered.
The water pump should fix every thing.

Adding seafoam to the gas and crankcase will stop or lessen your blowby.

As far as engine knocks i would checkout the PTO drive shaft. The norm seems to be the driven pulley tends to eat / fret the driveshaft (near the flywheel area) and the noise is so close to the engine it can mimic a rod knock.

All the tractors that have been sitting for a few years develope blowby and seafoam seems to stop it. We need to run them more and more too. These machines are mean't to work not sit. Sitting idle is the worst thing for them. I try to start everything up at least once a week if i'm not using them often.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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bob in CT
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Re: stationary running question

Postby bob in CT » Mon May 31, 2010 11:50 am

GSS-1016 Blue Ribbon Service Manual shows the two main problem areas for hot spots that benefit from flushing. The coolant return neck needs to be removed.

see this topic too http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=18457&p=134975&hilit=+flushing+tool#p134975

EDIT The lime deposit issue make an excellent case for using distilled water in the cooling system.
Sorry for diverting this topic into a major cooling system discussion, however most people probably don't flush their blocks properly.

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DanBuckman
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Re: stationary running question

Postby DanBuckman » Mon May 31, 2010 2:46 pm

Quote Big Bill "As far as engine knocks i would checkout the PTO drive shaft. The norm seems to be the driven pulley tends to eat / fret the driveshaft (near the flywheel area) and the noise is so close to the engine it can mimic a rod knock."

My first thought was that it was the driveshaft or pto but it acts like a rod,, quiet until warmed up disappears when I pull the wire of the back spark plug and only that plug. Added Lucust oil and it took about 3/4 of the noise away (when warm).

It's a mixed thing, If your seafoam works for the blow by, and it's either the pto shaft or just replacing a rod bearing I'll keep the tractor the way it is.
If the motor needs an overhaul then I'd rather direct the effort to putting in the diesel. The cub gas motor has a sound that soothes the soul but the higher rpm diesel would fix the killer problem with second gear being too Fing slow.
Oh and it has a water pump. No fan thou but I'll be mowing at 3mph rather than 2 , all that extra wind who needs a fan..

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Re: stationary running question

Postby outdoors4evr » Tue Jun 01, 2010 7:01 am

Tractors are designed to tolerate stationary applications. Many devices were built to run from a belt or from a PTO. As for stationary power supplies, just don't exceed the capabilities of the engine.

Now... Exactly how would you run your house off 12V DC? Seems like that would take one huuge inverter.
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arthurpbloom
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Re: stationary running question

Postby arthurpbloom » Tue Jun 01, 2010 9:22 pm

This is what I said:

I probably will use a single-wire heavy-duty Delco 12 Volt alternator, driven off the PTO, and use it to float a bunch of 12 Volt truck batteries. LED's will be the lamps of choice, since they draw so little current. I will install low-voltage wiring to feed them.


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