Tue Jun 08, 2010 1:22 pm
I FINALLY found this unit that I have had forever but couldnt find it!---It turns over, but its tight and is noisy.--I put oil in the end cups but still tight, so might have to do surgery on it!
I dont care if the charge side works or not,--just need the starter side.---I want to mount it on my Lincolin welder so I dont have to use that damn wind up rope that it came with!--if my idea works, I can start it in the winter to get power for the house when power goes off.
Looks to be in good shape outside the case, so hope I get lucky on the inside!
Never did get the one fixed on the 185, still have not got the hyd. leak found either!---I am about ready to junk that pos tractor! thanks; sonny
Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:55 am
Wait one minute the 185 isn't a POS tractor. There as good as the fcubs are if not a better design. (live PTO) i wish we had the good points of both tractors in one tractor. On your 185 it could be the wiring too. My 154 had a broken charge wire that goes to the dash. Like any of these old tractors there awesome when there running.
Remember the farmall cub and the Int 154/185/184 are two different tractors. The farmall is for the farm and the int154's are for estates. I think the both fill that catagory perfectly.
Do you really think we will see the crap made today last as long as these two tractors have lasted?
I would rebuild the s/g so it can charge too when the welder is running. Its awesome to have a starter and a charger on the welder. My stator went in my hobart welder that has the starter so i notched a pulley to fit the pin on the crank and installed it so i could add a one wire 10si alternator. Its awesome now that i don't have to keep on charging the battery. I burned up a new battery with the battery charger too. Those little lawn mower batteries which the welder takes don't take much abuse anyhoo.
Fri Jun 11, 2010 11:21 pm
Bill!! --I did like to drive the 185, (the few hours that it ran before pto scattered!)---easy to get on/off for me and steers great for not having ps.---it charges fine,--just wont start the engine.---Virginia had to pull start me with the big truck the couple times I got to use it.
The drive shaft and clutch splines are about gone in it and I have no way to tighten them up.---The hyd leak looks to be coming from behind and below the clutch/flywheel area and running onto the mower drive belt---I dont care about the leak, EXCEPT that it ruined the belt,(got it oil soaked) and the lift quits, so I have to fix the leak so it dont run the hyd. pump out of oil and burn it up too! thanks; sonny
Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:27 am
The 154/185/184 has all the comfort when mowing, plus the ease of getting up on it too.
On your oil leak if its a newer tractor there is a rubber hose return line thats on top under the seat area that could be leaking. The older tractors had the return line with the suction line on the bottom of the tranny. I believe the hood decal is blue on the older tractors and black on the newer tractors at least mine are. There are two rubber hose connections under the side cover on the dash bracket too. I look for the simplest things first.
Its too bad the previous owners neglected all these tractors for so many years and by the time we get them they need to be restored. On my very first int154 its been nickle and diming me. I fix one thing and another thing gives me problems. I got the charging system working now and my PTO just went. But it still needs all new wiring. The 3260 deck needs rebuilding too. I have all the bearings/seals but its the time i'm short of to do the job right now. My fcub is apart with a broken driveshaft too besides my 154/fel/backhoe project. Now i know what a fireman feels like with fire after fire. I almost got my garage cleaned were i can do complete restorations one at a time then i can do it right. These are awesome machines wether there cub cadets, 154's or fcubs we just need to hang in there and fix them. Like my local repair guy says the 154 is a mowing machine.
Sun Jun 13, 2010 10:30 pm
I tracked this leak to up behind the clutch/flywheel area, and all thats up there is a shaft cover and the trans. input shaft, so I cant tell exactly which place is the problem until the flywheel/clutch is taken out so I can get in there to see and tighten bolts,---or re-seal gaskets, replace input shaft o ring/gaskets etc.
A small line ,(hose) is on top of the trans. cover,---the pump suction (big pipe) is out the bottom of the trans. but the leak is higher up and on the front side from suction line. thanks; sonny
P.S. I had to cut a whole bunch of junk off the deck and re-shape what was left and run a BIG angle iron all they way across the front, so now it looks like a dozer blade but at least it is solid and hangs straight,---Mowed level too!
Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:48 pm
For seams leaking in the tranny's i use a silicone from Big A auto parts. Its called Pro Seal. I split an older dirtbike case and no gaskets were available (sundaynite) and i siliconed what i could when the old gasket split. I had one small drip of tranny oil in the case seam. I drained the oil and washed the bottom of the case(the engines is on the bike now). I then applied the Pro Seal on the case seam and put a spot light bulb on it overnight to harden it up. The next day we filled the case and it never leaked again. I was in a hurry because the tranny had a broken splined shaft. I took the splined shaft out of a 185cc and cut it to fit the 125cc and it fit the tranny perfectly. The only difference was the 125 had a thin ball bearing on the shaft and the 185 had a longer shaft because of the needle bearing. I just cut the extra bearing surface down in a lathe to match the 125 shaft. My point is the pro seal silicone is awesome stuff.
Don't feel bad my 3260 deck was like new until i did my daughter a favor and mowed her lawn. My son cut some trees down and left the stump high in the high grass. I slammed that stump so hard the tractor came up off the ground. I had to pull the deck and heat/bang out the dent in it. Now when i mow in a new place i have the deck up higher until i know whats below the high grass. Plus i have one size larger drive belt too so it will slip if it hits something.
I couldn't figure out why my 154 was hard starting. I even used the hand held portable jumper pack to try to get it to turn over. I finally noticed the PTO belt on the back trying to turn while the PTO is off. Right now i'm going to repair the PTO assembly but i thought my charging system was bad too. Lastyear my pto was slipping so i tightened up the plates a little. Now when i engage it nothing happens. Now i have an extra PTO setup from my FEL project tractor so i may swap them out and rebuild the unti i take off. What probably caused all my problems is my 3260 deck needs spindle bearings. I have all the parts here but again i tried to put it off till this winter but i mess the big guy for mowing. I hate to swap out the mower/frame to my other 154 but i still have to rebuild the deck too.
My point is we need to take each machine and go thru it then we know its good and won't break down. I mowed two acres with my cub cadet 104 with the 38" deck and i surely miss the 60" deck on the 154 plus the comfort too.
Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:00 pm
I spent today during the storm to look for oil leak!---trans was only 2 quarts low, so after topping it off I looked underneath and never did see any leak!!!---guess now I will have to put the scattered pto back on and drive the tractor around and try to get it to leak again! thanks; sonny
Thu Jun 24, 2010 10:07 pm
I didnt see a drain under the finals.---do you just take out the cover bolts and let it run?--IF there is anything in there to run!---These cover bolts were finger tight and might part of my leak!---some of the other cover bolts were also ready to fall out!---I have both fenders off and the whole back end is naked!---I am trying to go over all the bolts and re-tighten them! thanks; sonny
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