IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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11 posts • Page 1 of 1
Folks, I finally got my clutch apart. What a real pain to get to everything. The serial number is 169231 (if I am reading it correctly) and I have both the I&T and the IH service manual. Supposedly I did not have to loosen the motor mounts, but I ended up having to do so. Real pain to get the shaft out.
The clutch looks okay, but it looks ilke I need brake lining buttons (404 642 R1), which the local Case-IH dealer has.
The BAD news is that it looks like the Clutch Brake Retainer has been broke and then welded by a prevous owner to the Transmission Case....and then both have been broken again. Any one have any ideas where to get a Clutch Brake Retainer (404 641 R1). I doubt it is a Case-IH item but I will ask.
I don't know who tightened the bolts that hold it on, but I have yet to get them loose. Any tricks on how to get a wrench on them and to get them lose.
Then, I am still seeing if I need to take the Pressure Plate Assembly off. If I do, any tricks there. Looks a real challenges to get a wrench on the bolt that runs through the shaft that holds it on.
At the other end, it looks like the pin hole in the Drive Couple Hub Assembly is a bit oval. Is the best bet on that to weld it up and redrill the hole? The 5/16 pin was also a real pain to drive out of the shaft. Did I mention this was all a real pain! Oh well, probably will all be forgotten if I get it back to gether it running again. I am painting some parts while I got them off the tractor.
Any help appreciated. Maybe the scrapes and cuts will heal up while I am waiting for parts!!
Thanks in advance
Hamiltonbobscubs on ebay or contact him here he has posts here.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
For TIGHT bolts - first choice (if space allows) - impact wrench.
Second choice - HEAT - Heat the bolt head (NOT Red in any way), about 1-1/2 minutes with a MAPP Gas torch or 3 minutes with a propane torch. Be Careful around combustibles !!!!!!
Hope that this helps, NJDale
Best to remove seat and fender/seat support as a unit(if you already have not done). Use a 6 point box wrench and tap it with a hammer. It will come loose if the bolt is not welded.
I do have all the parts, used, that you need to fix. If the trans case is unusable from the weld, I have a case for free if you pick up.
Hamiltonbob, I took another look and it appears that just the Clutch Brake Retainer is broken and welded...not the transmission case. How can I contact you to purchase it (part 404 641 R1)? I am in Nebraska.
Still looks like a bear to get to the little buttons to stop the clutch from spinning. I will take off the seat and sheet metal assembly. Probably do some painting while I am at it. Looks like I might have to take off the Pressure Plate Assembly (looks like one bolt through a shaft) to get a wrench on the two bolts that hold on the Clutch Brake Retainer.
Then I probably need (and will) get the hole in the Hub Assembly Drive Coupler welded up and redrilled since it is gettin oval. Probably need a new pin since it looks a little worn.
You do not need to remove the Pressure plate assembly to get the 2 bolts for the clutch plate off.
Call Joe at Hamiltonbobscubs at 513-582-8424 and he will help you with parts.
Bought me a stubby 3/4" wrench and I was able to get in and get the piece off. Ended up taking off the rear wheels and sheet metal under the sheet anyway since I decided this would be a good time to paint the tractor. Got the part ordered from Hamiltonbob.
11 posts • Page 1 of 1
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