Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:18 am
WestDeerPirate wrote:If I am understanding part number #10, which is toothed, there should be a nut or something holding in place along with a washer. I have no idea just guessing. Once I have this arm disconnected I should be able to turn the wheel may be a 1/4 turn and then reattach the steering arm.
Is that pretty close to what everyone else was thinking?
I also have a call into Bob Naylor.
By looking at the vague diagram it appears the arm is held on with a nut, the part (shaft) it goes on appears to be smooth and tapered and threaded at the end and by tightening the nut it compresses the arm (10) onto the shaft. IF that is the case the “bump” may have just turned the arm on the shaft, leaving it in a wrong orientation to the rest of the steering. Again all speculation on my part, but I think this is what others are also saying and you are asking confirmation on.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:29 am
Thanks for working this out with me Dave. I will go home tonight and get under the tractor to see what I can see. I will post back my findings.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:41 am
If you have full left and right movement of the right wheel but less than full movement of the left wheel then I would look towards the area that affects only one side. That is the second diagram. Everything in the first diagram is both wheels. #10 is splined on my 154 and would be unlikely to move. You can slip a tooth in the steering gear box but it would have to be very much out of adjustment, the screw with locknut on the side of the steering box is the adjustment. Eitherway, those problems should affect both sides. I would look at the steering knuckle, 3, to see if it is bent or the weld has broken, also the ball joints in the tie rod ends,7, may have been damages such that they allow too much movement.
Not much can affect only one side and not the other.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 10:56 am
Thanks man. Hmm....I have full movement in the right tire but only have the normal turning radius in the left tire. So maybe I should focus on the parts that only effect one side and not both. Gives me a lot to think about.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:16 am
"I have full movement in the right tire but only have the normal turning radius in the left tire"
I am not understanding your description. Normal turning radius is full movement! Does the right tire turn all the way left and right? Does the left tire turn all the way left and right? You can point one tire, the right tire, straight ahead and see where the other tire points. When you turn to the left, the left tire should turn more, angle more, than the right and when turning right the right tire should angle more.
Are both wheels straight when centered? If not then look at the tie rods and ends. Turn the steering wheel and observe the wheels. Does the left move at the same time as the right or is there a lag in movement. If there is a lag then look at the steering knuckle weld.
Hitting a stumps favors breaking of bending something on that side, steering knuckle, tie rod or tie rod end, but not something further back in the steering mechanism. The leverage of the steering mechanism protects stuff closer to the steering column at the expense of stuff closer to the wheel.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:32 pm
The way to adjust the alignment on any Cub Cadet or #series Lo-boy is to adjust the tie rod ends. Back off the jam nut, then spin the tie rod end (part #7 from the diagram above) out or in on the tie rod, then re-tighten the jam nut. However, it is unlikely that you knocked it out of alignment unless you bent something. If you stopped the tractor by hitting the stump, you have likely bent something. My guess is that you have bent either the spindle itself or the arm on the spindle, and it is hitting the axle stop too quickly. In either case, you likely need a new spindle, or you may have to straighten it. Be careful if you try to straighten it, as they tend to break if torqued on too many times. If you clean it off you should be able to see either chipped or wrinkled paint where the bend is.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:54 pm
When I turn the steering wheel to the right I have full movement of both tires to the right. When I turn the steering wheel to the left I have movement of both tires only half the normal radius of a left hand turn.
Right side is 100% normal. Left side is 50% radius.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:58 pm
Looking at the parts diagram and deciphering what appears to be the problem, I think that the problem may very well lie with the parts listed in the Jim's reply. 3,5, or 7 probably are it. I have a feeling that if you look at part #3 and compare the orientation you may find that the left side is off. It appears that they should be orientated parallel but 180 degrees rotated when the wheels are pointed straight. If that is indeed the case then you may have to disassemble and realign on reassembly.
Now mind you, I am extrapolating from other tractors with similar front ends.
Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:49 pm
Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:37 pm
I( am sure you have something bent, I dont think you will solve the problem by moving the pitman arm on the steering box. It is most likely keyed to go only one way
Fri Jul 09, 2010 7:17 am
FINDINGS: When I turn the steering wheel to the right, the linkage up front is fine. Nothing out of the ordinary. When I turn the wheel to the left about half way through the rotation, the drag link ball joint (#7) at the steering lever (#8) end of things was hitting the steering lever support assembly (#5) at the lip that is located essentially directly below the engine fan. I noticed that the right side tie rod and tie rod end seemed to move down slightly when the steering lever moved. This caused the drag link ball joint to move up and when the steering lever turned to the left the threaded portion of the drag link ball joint (#7) hit the support assembly (#5). Rather than take apart the tie rods and ball joints on each side of the tractor or remove the drag link rod (None of which appeared visibly bent) I decided to do the following.
Right or wrong it was a very simply fix.
I decided to take a dremel with a grinding bit and a cutting wheel and make a small notch in the steering lever support assembly lip portion for the threaded portion of the drag link ball join to pass by. I ground out a section roughly 1/2" wide x 1/4" deepand the problem was solved. I ground my little notch smooth and rounded everything so that there were no sharp edges. Worked perfectly. Took the tractor for a ride and everything seemed smooth. No sounds, no issues.
I am guessing that the part that is bent is the left hand side of the steering lever (#8) where the drag link ball joint (#7) connects. It is such a slight bend that you cannot even see it but if you were able to heat up and bend the steering lever (#8) down slightly the ball joint would have cleared the little lip on the support assembly. Either way, I'm satisifed with the fix.
Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:40 am
Well I guess it is good that you found the problem and devised a temporary fix for it. How much of the original Modifying a part with a repair such as that is probably not ideal at least to my mind, but it does allow you to use the tractor.
I see which part you mean.. Item #8 on page 3, IH part # 404 600 R1 Lever Steering. I would probably talk to Bob and see if you can get replacement parts for the future as you may probably want to install good parts should you decide to restore the lo-boy.
Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:11 am
Rudi - I totally agree. Bob is out of town right now but i believe he wuill be back on Monday. I sent his wife a few emails. I will be speaking to him about a replacement part which should not be difficult to get or install. But, for now my 8 acres can get cut and brush can be moved so I am happy with it.
Fri Jul 09, 2010 10:45 am
I just picked up all 3 drag links rods, 4 drag link joints and a new steering lever all from hamiltonbobscubs on Ebay. $60.00 plus shipping
Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:54 pm
Glad it is all working out
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