Farmall Cub

Just picked up a beaten and worn down 185. PO wasn't too mechanically inclined so alot of roll pins have been replaced with nails, baling wire, and maybe even toothpicks. Springs are missing everywhere and sorely needs a little lovin. My first question might be obvious to you more learned veterans but has me puzzled. It has to do with the hydro lift lever and the block that actually acuates the valve.

1. The small hole in the lever, closest to the bend. Does it go on the outside or inside of the console? I put it on the outside and used a long/soft spring on the inside, (between the consile and the steel block), to keep the lever pushed to the left.

2. Does the block get pinned to the shaft with a 3/16 roll pin? I thought it did but either the hole in the lever is smaller or I have the pin wedged just off to the side of the hole.

3. Dot the linkage arms from the valve to the block offset to the right, the left, or do they go wide at the valve and narrow at the block in a straight line?

When I move the lift lever to the float position, it pushes the lever to the right abd pops it out of the bushing on the LH side of the console.

Thanks in advance,
Ken

Ken:

Can't answer your questions as I do not own a Numbered Series Cub.. but I can help with some stuff.. There are some resources for the Numbered Series Cubs on the Manual Server including the Cub 185 Lo-Boy although it is limited to the International Cub 185 Lo-Boy Operator's Manual 8-75. I hope to have more eventually.

There is one other resource that will be of help to you and that is the I&T IH-Series Shop Manuals, IH-38 1974 Edition Complete. It is primarily for the 154, but I there is much that would be similar I think. I hope this is of some help to you. I am constantly looking for access to affordable Numbered Series manuals, but they are lower on my list due to financial limitations.

Oh, congrats on acquiring your very first Cub

to Farmallcub.com Forum Family. And you have come to the right place for all things Cub related. If you click on the Site Rules, Regulations, & Important Information, it will point you to the Welcome Wagon wherein you will find links to many useful sites and topics. One of which is the Cub Manual Server. Enjoy!.

Welcome aboard!

1) The hole goes on the inside of the console. The rod should stick through the other side of the console about 1/2" or so.
2) The block does not quite line up well with the valve to use a pin. If you use a pin, then the handle seems to be too far forward. It really needs a 1.5" connecting rod. I didn't like how sloppy the factory one felt on my tractor so I made one from an aluminum rectangle with a hole in each end and used a roll pin on each end.
3) Offset will be to the left side of the tractor (while seated). You will see where this ends up when you fix #1.

It won't pop out any more when you push the rod through and pin the hole in #1.

#1 sounds reasonable, but then why does the parts breakdown show a spacer and spring between the small pin/hole and the block? All they would do is push agaisnt nothing that moves in those directions.

I also discovered someone has "repaired" the steering assy support, (down between the frame rails)(pushes the upper tube of the column forward), and might have thrown the angle of the steering column off. The hydro block wants to hit the steering tube in the float position.
GOD . . . I WISH SOME PEOPLE WOULD LOSE THE RIGHT TO OWN WRENCHES ! ! ! Sorry for the rant . . .my bad.
This little problem throws the fiberglass dash alignment out of whack.

Also discovered the IPTO safety switch has the wires jumpered. Any pics of the switch and/or location? Don't know if it's there or not.

Here's pic of the beast . . .maybe. . .

I can look on my 185, tomorrow in the daylight,----its in the shed torn apart right now so I can see most every part! thanks; sonny

Sony, No need to look, I found the switch. The hydro filter/housing is missing and someone put a 1" hose looped around in there to eliminate the housing/filter, (got one coming). The hose was hiding the switch. It's mounted on the underswide of the seat/fender support.

Got the IPTO removed and tightened up some little bit. It would break loose at around 30lbs of torque, got it up to about 60lbs now, that was the best I could do. The two big belleville cupped washers at the rear of the shaft were installed wrong. They were "nested" with each other instead of cup-to-cup. I noticed mine doesn't have the adjustable locking collar or shims at the front of the clutch pack like the adjustment procedures say. It has a snapring and a solid shim, (maybe .170 thick). Also, what they call the "cam cover" is missing. Is this made out of rubber, plastic, or steel. Besides keeping big chuncks of dirt out, does it serve any other purpose?

Pulled the carb and cleaned it. Wasnt' really dirty but at least now I know where I'm at. Got it and the govenor adjusted and also got the throttle control tightened up so it stays in the fast position. Just went through the "throttle slot" on the dash with two 7/16 wrenches to tighten the bolt.

Gonna tackle the lights next. Not looking forward to getting up under the dash and don't feel like fighting the steering wheel yet. Probly going to have to cut it off. Someone has already smashed the inner tube/shaft with after a failed attempt to pull it.

Anybody have #5 in the picture below that they're willing to part with?

Thats where mine is mounted,--not hooked up, ---the pto clutch on the 185's do not have nut on shaft,--they are snapring ----(154 has nut set-up)---the cam cover is a big, thick neoprene band, and is supposed to keep dirt out of the ball grooves so clutch can work properly!---lotta dirt gets up in there, but I think it would work without one.-----doubtful that you could find one!---it dont come in the $260.00 repair kit either and they dont sell the clutch parts individually -----dont know if the complete new clutch unit from IH ($1,600.00) has one or not!---mine is scattered right now but all I really need to get it somewhat operational is the 8 wave spring washers and the snap ring on the end of shaft.
From what I can see the setting procedure is awful picky and fine measuring.---if not set correctly they will not completely release and mower will try to turn when trying to start the motor, adding to the starting problem.---Wife had to pull mine with the big truck every time I tried to start it.( only got to use it 3 times when the clutch scattered)-----If you need pics of some of the parts, mine is still somewhat apart in the shed, so holler if you get stumped on something.

The little spring on the lever would be common shelf item at a hardware store. thanks; sonny

Hi Phazer, Welcome. I am also working on restoring a 185. I rescued mine from a county auction. It was so sad... had been painted a couple of times with dark brown and yellow house paint. Was allowed to wear out... had the PTO removed as well as the belly mower fixings. My $500 tractor has a good motor and 3pt with hydros, so I thought it might be a worthy project.
Good luck with your 185. You can find a good number of parts on e-bay. Hamiltonbobscubs is there and he is honest and has an excellent return policy. I am looking for some creeper gear parts if you happen across anything with a creeper in your travels.
Another e-bay help was buying a set of manuals on CD. For about $10 you can get the service manual, parts manual, owners manual and a manual for the Woods 154 mower. Hope this helps.