Farmall Cub

OOoooo . . . . a cab ! !

I think I'm in love. . .

I have a softcab on my 129. Nice but not very airtight by any means.

I don't have a 3-pt on the 185 so I don't even know why I want a rear light. Except from my experience of mowing after dark in late Fall, I like seeing where I'm backing up at, (that comes from a few of those "opps" moments).

Not to hijack the thread but I am working on the same thing. Is it possible to wire the rear light to the switch without taking off the gas tank or removing the streering wheel. It just looks awful tight getting in there. I have the wiring diagram but just confuses me. I see from previous conversations the rear lights operate off the third or fourth setting on my switch (I have not looked to see how many settings I have).

I have be working on my Cub 154 off and on all summer and now getting to the finishing touches.

Bookman

On my 185, if you take the tunnel cover off, (covers the driveshaft), you'll see two sets of wires going rearward, each set has a connector that is "T" shaped. The one going to the rear lights only had the black wire coming out. The white wire needed to have a terminal and wire ran to the back.

Mine was already ran from the switch. You can check yours with a 12v test light. Mine was only hot when the switch is in the "rear" position, (full clockwise).

If your isn't wired, it can be accessed if you take off the LH lower dash side panel that covers IPTO drive belts. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY ! ! ! The switch knob can be removed, the nut undone and if you reach up under the dash, you can pull the switch out with all the wires still connected.

The wires running from the switch to the back lights are long gone. You mentioned two wires, one black and one white. Sorry to be dense, but where do each connect up front and where do they each connect in back? Thanks
Bookman

Black and white both connect to light switch, (different terminals). Using a 12v test light, the black hooks to the terminal the goes hot in the first two positions, (NOT the two terminals with the "coiled" wire between them). The white wire hooks to the terminal that is hot in the "rear" position.

Rear/white goes to a clear work light, if equipted.

Tail/black goes to the red light but can also "T" off and feed a flasher that will power a yellow flashing light.

If you go with a flasher lamp and a red lamp, they are both on at the same time but the red doesn't flash. It can if you want it to . . .

Phazer, Thanks very much. I will let you know how it works out.

Bookman

Switch operation:

Off: Off
Dim: Headlights are dim, red rear on solid, yellow flashing
On: Headlights are bright, red rear on solid, yellow flashing
Rear: Headlights are bright, rear red off, yellow flashing off, clear utility on

Ran of time today to make the changes, but I rewired the rear red light and the flasher light. I ran just one line to both lights. Real pain to get the switch out from under the dash and then to get the wire back to the lights. Turned on the switch. First position is just the rear red light alone (no blinker); second position is rear read light alone (no blinker) and third position is head lights but no rear red light and no blinker. Now the blinker may flasher unit to operate. Thought it might be built in but maybe not. Otherwise, I do not know (unless wiring is lose somewhere) why flasher will not work with the rear red light is on. I would like to get the rear red light and head lights to work together too...preferably at the last position. Any suggestions? ....I would like to do without just trying trial and error since it is such a pain to get the switch out from behind the dash.

Thanks

Bookman

Go here: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=17184 and then scroll about halfway down. You can "right click" and save it to your picture folder. Then go there and double click to open it. Yoiu should be able to rotate the picture then.

Thanks to SCOTT in the original post.

This set up will run the tail and warning at the same time with only the warning flashing. The white wire is shown just dead-ended for future usage as a utility feed.

Thanks, I have the diagram. Kind of odd how my lights are "working." I will try to tomorrow to see if I can figure out right wiring. I have just one black wire coming out of my warning light. As a minimum I want the head light and tail light to be on at the same time...ummm.

Bookman

As far as no headlights in the first two positions. It sounds like you might have the headlights hooked up to the "rear" terminal, or you have a bad switch.

I hate to tell you, but I would disconnect the battery again, pull the switch, then hook the battery up with the switch hanging out the side and make sure it operates as intended. You can also pull the hood, gastank, (easy), and be able to see it while installed much easier. You might also run a temporary ground to any lights that aren't working to eliminate a bad ground situation.

I will give it a shot. Thanks much.

Bookman

A ground from the bolt holding the flasher light on to a nearby bolt makes the flasher ligtht turn on (but not flash). Probably just too much fresh paint. Still have not figured out why no dimmer light and flasher and rear light do not work as supposed to on the third notch when the head lights turn on. Might be a project this winter when I am working in the shop more. Got outside work to do now.

Thanks for the help.

Bookman