IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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I would appreciate any advice on rebuilding the engine on my 1979 LoBoy 184.
I just rebuilt the clutch, however I now see there is excessive play in the crankshaft. Looks like I should pull the engine for a full rebuild.
Can anyone recommend a company with a complete rebuild kit? I assume I'll need to oversize the pistons and maybe bearings? Any advice on that?
Since I'm asking, how about any tip for rebuilding or other things to look at when I have the engine out?
I just ordered the shop manual from a vendor online.
Tractor SN: 2000116U048681* (48681)
Engine SN: 60CT2U325942X (325942)
Model: I 184 LOBOY
Thanks so much!
From what I've heard, there are no oversize pistons available. You'd have to sleeve it and put standards in.
Any chance of dropping the pan and just "rolling" in a new main/thrust bearing, (usually the rear). I've seen it done on trucks before.
If you look at #12 on the following image, (the center bearing),http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=cub_cadet&mn=Cub+185+Lo-Boy+Tractor&dn=0118400047, you'll see the bearing has "flanges" on it. Those are the thrust surfaces that keep the crank from walking back and forth. From years of pushing the clutch in it forces the crank shaft forward and wears the thrust surface. If it's only worn and the matching surface of the crank is reasonably smooth, you should be able to get by with just a center bearing. BUT . . . each and every job is different and you won't know until you have a peek/see inside.
To confirm this diagnosis, loosen the starter/gen belt just a little. If the crank can be moved forward and makes the belt be misaligned, but when you push it all the way back and it's ok, it's probably the thrust. If the pulley gets out of alignment to the rear, you have bigger problems. I'd bet it's the first way if I was a betting man . . .
This is a C-60 engine built for Cubs, power units, etc. since 1947. They never had any factory sleeves.
You can use our excellent sponsor, TM Tractor, for most of the engine parts you need.
Bob CT . . . Sorry, should have explained that if cylinder wear is present, the block needs bored, then aftermarket sleeves installed so that standard pistons can go back in. I knew these weren't sleeved from the factory.
Didn't intend to slight the sponsors . . .
Indianamark . . . Not 100% sure but 99.99999999% they are.
You can buy pistons of 10, 20, 30, 40 over from Case IH and even 60 over in aftermarket. The statement I am correcting is that oversize pistons are not available. Looks like I hit send before I finished my thought.
184, 185, all the same engine when it comes to bearings, pistons, etc.
Dang . . . . Sorry for the bad advice, that's the newb showin in me. That's what I get for making assumptions. I had read several places that O.S. pistons weren't available.
Dang internet . . . I thought everything was true that you read on it.
I learn something new everyday . . .
I wish I had a dime for every time I passed on misinformation. Before I posted, I double-checked with Messick's just to make sure the parts had not been discontinued. I was hoping the NOS .020 pistons I have on the shelf suddenly quintupled in value, but no such luck...
If its not using a lot of oil, has power, runs decent, got good oil pressure, ----run it til it drops!---as far as end play do as suggested,---stick in the mains and go!----If you want to go for the trailer queen job,---take the motor to your local automotive machine shop(yes they do tractor engines too,--an engine is an engine, they all have the same basic parts, just shaped a little different) and have them go thru the whole deal --surface the head, block,and manifold, re-bore the block, grind crank, grind the valves, set valve spring tension, (if needed, they have shims and gauges to test them), check flywheel for tru face and machine if needed, etc! ---they know where to get all the oversized stuff and what to order!(chances are that they can get the whole kit in one package assuring proper fit the first time out!)---you would not be able to do any machine work needed at home unless you have a COMPLETE engine machine shop,---so save the time looking for stuff and decide how far you want to go and how deep your pockets are,---then decide on which way you want to go!
Just my opinion, good luck on your engine! thanks; sonny
Now that's funny . . . you can't teach that stuff.
Thanks for all the advice! I think I'm finally on the right track. I started out at our local Case-IH dealer. They said Case never made a 184! So much for local help. It took me a little while to find this forum, but you guys have been very helpful. Thanks again.
Mark, are you only observing for/aft movement or do you have up/down movement as well? Your original wasn't clear on that. Crankshaft end play is not a real critical thing, unless you have a bunch, say .025" or more. I usually find that in a case where end play has become extreme, the crankshaft will be damaged as well, negating the possibility of just sliding in a new thrust bearing, an inspection will be necessary. On the other hand, if you're observing up/down movement, you'll need to look into the problem right away and it probably won't be pretty.
Welcome to the forum, by the way!
Thanks Gary. I have an oil leak from the rear seal. That's what started this saga...
Looks like the end play is .050, just from a quick look.
I'm concerned about the crankshaft now! I guess this is going to turn into a nice winter project. Thanks for the advice.
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