Farmall Cub

You may just need a new (and improved) rear main seal. You will have to pull the oil pan anyhow, so you can get a good look at the crank while there.
I just swapped the rear main seal out in my 184 this summer. I had the seal machined and set by Phil Lenke.
Check out this post http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47084&p=389301&hilit=rear+seal#p389301 The seal went in without a hitch and hasn't leaked since.
Putting the seal in is probably a 1-2 day job other than the shipping time involved. The bad thing is pulling the covers off and realizing there probably is other stuff that could use some attention. (Always expensive to remove covers or hoods)
Good Luck!

He has the R2 retainer. Earlier tractor have R1 retainers and they are the ones that have the problem with loose seal fitment , hence the rework. I rebuilt by 52 long before this Forum and the seal "just" fit in like the rings in one of those carnival games that are nearly impossible to win. Like may others, I used an adhesive but that seal has leaked like a faucet at idle ever since. I have several R2 retainers and the original replacement seal presses in just fine with an appropriate crush fit. If you can push the seal in with your fingers, you have a problem. Otherwise, this is a non-issue and the replacement factory seal you will get with the engine gasket set is OK to use. My 50 and 52 will both get R2 retainers (since I happen to have them) and a standard seal eventually. Otherwise, Phil's solution, developed by Rick Prentice, is the only way to go for old style retainers.

Bob, I did main seal replacements on 2 late Cubs and a 184 earlier this summer, all 3 had R-2 retainers and all 3 seals fell out. The problem is not limited to R-1 retainers.

Gary, Thanks for your input. If all three R-2 retainer seals fell out, how did you solve the problem?

indianamark wrote:Gary, Thanks for your input. If all three R-2 retainer seals fell out, how did you solve the problem?

Outdoors4ever posted a link above. Follow that link to the solution: a re-machined cover with a different seal.

I used the seal retainers re-machined by Phil. That's by far the best solution we have.

My local CaseIH dealer ballparked the overhaul kit in the $700-$800 range, closer to the $700 end. They also ballparked them doing the rebuild at between $1100 - $1200, parts included, assuming they didn't find anything "catastrophic" once they got started. I don't have the cash to pursue that rebuild at the moment, but I'd sure like to.

Your dealer must be twiddling their thumbs begging for work because that price is pretty lean on the labor.
I have a funny feeling they will "find" something bigger once they get in there just to make it worth their while.
Did they detail what they were going to do for this "rebuild"?
Were they quoting a "valve grind & ring replacement" overhaul?

I know this guy and his prices are not too bad.

http://www.agkits.com/international-60- ... d-kit.aspx