IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
The throttle cable came loose from the throttle lever on my 184 Lo-Boy. Looking through the crack in the dash, its looks as if it just slipped out of the control lever. How in the world do I fix this!!?? There is absolutely NO WAY to reach it from the back side with the gas tank, hydraulics, clutch, etc. in the way; and from the front, you have the steering wheel, etc. Please help!!!
You can pull the gas tank. It's not that hard. Remember, drain or siphon the gas first. Besides the hood, one bolt at front, strap at rear, (bolt on each side), and fuel line. When you go to put things back together, set the tank loosely, then hook the fuel line up before you tighten the tank.
I'd be curious how it came loose. Might be a good time to put a new one in while your in there.
No, the hyd valve is bolted to the rear tank support.
You'll thank me later . . .
BTW . . . Not knowing if your cable pinches around the coiled housing or if there is a ferrel with a groove on the end, if it's not rusted up internally, you might be able to "re-pinch" it back together. This would also be a good time to tighten the pivot bolt of the throttle assy in-case it won't hold a steady speed and starts creeping back to idle.
Since the housing is already loose from the brkt, I'd also try to unhook the inner cable from the lever, hold it up and work some lightweight oil into the cable housing. It's probably dry.
When I told my dad I've been misplacing things and doing stupid stuff----His reply---"It only gets better"
Don't feel bad. I'm having the same problem with mine and the inside of the cable is so rusted neither end of it will budge. Got the tank out easy enough but the access hole is so small I can't seem to get a good enough grip on anything to break the screws loose that hold the throttle lever in place. What a place to work! If the arm that holds the cable wasn't so bent up I would try to mount a new cable on it and forget taking the lever out.
I got the bright idea of pulling the steering wheel and dash to make it easier. After drilling and tapping two 5/16 holes in the wheel for the wheel puller the bolts broke off and the wheel never budged. OYE!
If I ever get the two screws for the throttle lever out, some allen head screws and lockwashers are going back in.
Anyway, I've had everything soaking for a week and I'm going back to work on it tomorrow.
Good Luck! Let me know what you figure out.
Had the same problem with my 184's throttle cable, repaired it the through the opening under the hydraulic controls. At the same time I decided to trouble shoot the lights. To make a long story short a previous owner had removed a small section of the dash under the steering colunm. With some jiggling, this allows the dash to comeout far enough to work on all the switches and wiring without removing the steering wheel. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST. And the PTO (184) switch wires need to be disconnected.
Haven't taken the steering wheel off my 184 yet (that'll have to happen before long), but I have taken a few stubborn ones off Cub Cadets. There are a couple of good ways, one of which I picked up off the old forums. Using either method, it's important to spray heavily with either Kroil or PB Blaster a day or two ahead of time.
Get a fine thread bolt and nut with threads that match the steering column threads. Screw the nut onto the steering column about halfway the thickness of the nut, then screw the bolt into the nut from the top. Then, while pulling up on both sides of the wheel, have somebody tap the bolt firmly with a hammer. On Cub Cadets you can actually push up on both sides of the wheel with your knees while tapping with the hammer, but I don't know if you can do this with a 184. Sounds crazy, but it works, I've used this method more than once and have a bolt in my tool box that I use just for this purpose.
If you have access to an air impact chisel, I have a buddy who uses one of these to remove steering wheels. He has an punch attachment which is pointed and slightly larger in diameter than the center hole in the threaded area of the steering column, and he just sets the point of this attachment down in the center hole, pulls the trigger while pulling up on the wheel, and removes the wheel with no fuss. Easier than the bolt method, but it does require impact tools.
I agree that working under the dash on a 184 is a PITA. I've been under the dash of mine once, and need to get back under there to rewire my headlights, but I'm sure not looking forward to it.
CC 70, CC 100, CC 106, CC 128, CC 149, CC 169, CC 1000, CC 1450, CC 782 (2 of 'em, one early, one late), CC 982, CC 1782, Cadet 76, IH 184, IH 684, IH 3311, IH 3314, Case 222, Case 446, various Lawnboys and one old Snapper. Not all of 'em run...
8 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests