IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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I'm trying to replace the throwout bearing on my 154. I've removed the bolt that holds the driveshaft (just behind the flywheel) but I can't get the shaft to slide forward (it does have a relief machined into the flywheel)...grrrr.
So far I've pried, pushed, and pulled. I've heated it. I've soaked it in Kroil and PB Blaster......and nothing. I'm actually considering cutting a nut in half and welding it onto the shaft so I have something solid to pound on.
Any other suggestions?
The book says to move the engine forward an inch or so. It is not as hard as it sounds. Remove hood. Remove front gas tank bolt and lift tank over bolt so it can slide forward. Remove 2 firewall bolts. Remove 4 rear engine bolts. Remove 4 bolts underside the front of engine that holds the steering support. Remove 4 bolts holding hub to the flywheel. Pry engine forward and inch or so.
This would be easier than welding a bolt to the driveshaft, which still may not work.
The earlier 154s with the center bearing had to have the engine moved to remove the driveshaft. The later models without the center bearing just had the shaft slide into the recess in the flywheel, no need to move the engine. Do not heat very much, there are rubber spacers in the coupling. If you have the later style, clean the back of the shaft next to the coupling by wrapping with emery cloth and pulling it back and forth. This will clean off the paint and rust so the shaft can slide. Then clamp the shaft a few inches behind the coupling with vise grip pliers and let the handle of the pliers rest on the frame so the shaft will not rotate. Take the lock bolt out of course and tap the coupling with a large punch to try to rotate the coupling. The pliers should keep the drive shaft from rotating, The coupling may rotate 1/1000 of a degree. Now punch the coupling the other direction to rotate it the other way. Go back and forth and it will eventially free up and rotate around the shaft. Then if the shaft has been cleaned of all rust, you should be able to tap on the side of the vise grips to push the drive shaft forward through the coupling and into the recess in the flywheel.
I also use a socket head allen wrench when reassembling because the allen head bolt needs to be very tight and you will not do that with a hand helded allen wrench.
Of course my int154 that needs the clutch replaced has to be the older one.
The blue decal on the hood(late 60's) is the older 154 and the PTO drive pulley is on the driveshaft. The engine needs to go forward on the older one.
The black decal on the hood (70's) has the PTO drive pulley on the engine flywheel with a hole/space in the center(recess) of it. This way the shaft goes into the recess and the clutch is removable.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
4 posts • Page 1 of 1
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