IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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Sat Sep 17, 2011 5:19 pm
I been trying to look up a new drive shaft for my late 60's int154 cub loboy with the creeper tranny. This one has the Pto drive pulley on the driveshaft. I think the part number is # IH 543679 R1 and i'm not sure of the length but i think its around 24" + , but i'd like to get a good reading on the info on it first. I'm not sure of the cost either. Bill
Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:10 am
I'm not sure yet but i think?????
Drive shaft length info;
Early int154 with the PTO pulley on the drive shaft 60's with light blue decals on the hood I think the serial number is 18000 & down
31" pulley on drive shaft w/o creeper
24 1/2'' pulley on drive shaft with creeper
Later int154 with the PTO drive pulley on the flywheel 70's with the darker blue/black decals on the hood I think the serial number is 18001 & up
29" pulley on the flywheel w/o creeper
22 1/2 pulley on the flywheel with creeper
I would measure the shaft before buying one to be sure.
I haven't looked into the possibility of a broken fcub shaft that may be remachined to fit a int154 too. I'm not sure of the length nor the spline size yet. I'm also looking into hardfacing a worn spline on the drive shaft and either filing it or regrinding the splines.
Many years ago i watched the older mechanics put white greae on the splines and throwout brearings to lube them. I just don't see this done anymore. We grease the pilot bearing but not the splines. I think just a little will do. I may burnish the two mating parts with moly.
Mon Sep 19, 2011 11:59 am
I grease the splines on an enclosed clutch. I am not sure it would be a good idea on the exposed to grit and grime clutch on a numbered series. The grease may hold debris and increase wear. On my numbered series, I just spray with lock lube which is graphite. Not really sure it helps but it seems like it would attract less grit to wear the splines.
Tue Sep 20, 2011 5:02 am
I greased the splines for the 184 when I replaced the driveshaft. I think this is mandatory for longevity.
As for the driveshaft... For new parts, the driveshafts are typically available at a full length. When the creeper is involved, it may be required to cut down the driveshaft. I had to purchase a full length and have it cut down, turned, and have the keyway machined in.
Tue Sep 20, 2011 6:21 pm
I just purchased two new after market drive shafts and two used but in good usable condition drive shafts. I figure I need one maybe machined already to fit. I'm also thinking of hard facing the wornout splines and either filing or grinding the new splines. The hard face will last much longer. I need to also measure my broken fcub drive shaft to maybe see it that can be machined to fit a 154 with the creeper. Its either new + the machining to make it work or used or recycle. I figure now is the time to get my driveshaft assortment ready and on the shelf. Right now i'm installing two new clutches in two of my int154's. My fisrt int154 only had wornout PTO engagement shifter bearings so far. Its been a great tractor so far for $800 its one of my best ones so far. But my 3rd int154 is moving loose dirt and running great too.(creeper).
Wed Sep 28, 2011 4:20 pm
I'm confused now for sure i have three different lengths of creeper drive shafts so far.
I'm also looking into using a shaft coupler so i can shorten or lengthen shafts and cut off bad splines and attach good ones to good drive shafts with good pin holes. I figure to make couplers and key hole weld them once there lined up. I found some split shaft couplers i'm going to try first to see if the'll work. Its good to have other options besides new or used shafts too. But we can cut new shafts and used shafts too. I'm still going to try the hardface on the wornout splines too.
Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:09 am
I had thought about putting a second u-joint in the shaft to deal with misalignment between the engine and the transmission (or creeper). I think a lot of these become misaligned and that causes spline wear. A second U-Joint would also make it easier to get in and out of there without moving the engine forward.
Thu Oct 06, 2011 5:09 am
For anyone wanting to hard face the old shaft, you would then need to grind the hard face off to cut the new splines as the hardness would be impossible to file off. The original splines and shafts appear to be mild steel. I have been a machinist for years and I can see how making a coupler would be very possible. Also could have the original shaft welded (mild rod) and set up on a indexing head with the right cutter and cut new splines on the original shaft. This would keep the equipment original for the purists. Just sayin.
Thu Oct 06, 2011 7:47 pm
I figured out a way to couple the shafts that have good ends after cutting them in half and key hole welding them after installing a coupling. The key hole welding operation will cut down on distortion and shaft runout. I'm no purist i'm just a tractor user and want to fix it so i can depend on it. If i can't find a new shaft my only option is to cut two shafts that have good usable opposite ends install a coupling and key hole weld it. I figure i can heat and sweat the keyless coupling on too then key hole weld it. This way i can save old shafts that have one end wornout too. Recycle right? I just purchased all kinds of new and used shafts. So when i pull down my 3rd int154 i will beable to deceide them how to repair it. Its good to look at all the options. Again i'm no purist to a point but if i can update it or help it to survive when we can't find the parts anymore i will figure a way to make it work and do it right. With my ideas and the input from you guys I think we can fix anything here. I wish more would jump in and post there ideas too.
With the spline wear outdoors4evr you maybe right it could be the frame twist in an off camber situation that causes the drive shaft to bind and wear. But at the sametime these well used 154's do have lots of hours on them too. I been also wondering if the broken drive shaft from my fcub would also fit my int154 with the creeper. Of course my broken fcub shaft has the perfect looking spline too. My 3rd int154 was used mainly on a hillside and maybe thats why the drive shaft seen extra twist and wear because of the off camber.
I'm just throwing some options and ideas out there i just want to fix it once and have it last for my lifetime and my kids lifetime too. Bill
BTW; I been a machinest, car / jeep / truck 4x4 mechanic, engine rebuilder, tranny & differential rebuilder, cnc machine builder/ rebuilder, engineering lead tech, welder fabricator all since i was 13yo. now i'm 61yo. I find with all my experience there isn't nothing i can figure out and fix or build.
I love my int154's I like my fcub and my cadets too.
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