Farmall Cub

I found a Cub Lo Boy 154, the owner isn't sure of the age - he says 1970's. I havn't gotten to look at it yet but he will get me the serial #. He's asking $2500 - rebuilt clutch/throw out bearings, PTO clutch, front spindles. It has a 60"belly mower, 54" snow blade and three point. I hopeto look at it in the next couple of days. Do the newer lo Boys' PTO's spin CCW like the older ones? Anything special I need to be wary of or look at closely when I get to see it? He also has a single bottom plow and a 3 point drag bucket. I'd like the plow, but not sure I need the drag, but you never know? Thanks- Greg

The PTO does spin backwards (CCW) on the numbered series as well.

Check the clutch and all gears. Engage the mower and mow some grass if you can and it's available. Other than that, check the condition of the oil, engine for blow-by, condition of the tires and for any play in the mower spindles. Just the basic overall condition of things.

Greg:

Suggest having a look at the manuals for the Cub-154 Lo-Boy. Might help.

If it's a good running tractor and the PTO clutch engages and sounds good, that is a good price for all the things that come with it. The 154 lo-boy was built from 1968 though 1974. It was 15-hp with a manual PTO and was painted yellow/white.

It sounds like they already did the expensive repairs so it should be a pretty good deal.

Thank you all! I need to set a time an go look at it. Better bring the trailer.

Look at all the seals for running seapage. Look for blowby, smoke on start up(cold with the choke out). Check the clutch and PTO for engagement. Check the complete frpame for splits/cracks at the top flats. I find them were the frame goes wider at the turns too. Look at the front axle pin where its fastened to the brackets for walling out the pin hole. Try to move the front axle by the wheel to turn the wheel rearward and forward. Look for looseness in the steering. Drive it in all 4 gears. Check forward and reverse for popping out of gear (loose fork in the tranny).

Everything you find wrong is a bargaining chip. Offer $1,500 cash by showing all 15 / $100 bills in a fan inhand. If its all ok. Start low and stop at $2,000. final offer. Keep the wad of money on seperate pockets never show the whole wad while haggling. Don't be bullish when spending the money hold back and haggle it.

What model is the single bottom plow? Is it setup for the 3-point hitch?

The plow is a single bottom w/ 3-point attachments. Almost looks home made or it was altered according to the photo he sent me, but can't tell for sure. A lot of welding on the plow framework that let's just say does not look factory.

Thanks for the haggling tips. I have been around the block a bit, but can always use some tips.

Due to the large size of farms out here, these weren't too popular and are not all that easy to find locally. I saw one at an auction last spring go for well over $4000 & I wouldn't have bid over $1800 for it. Needless to say, I didn't even get a bid in on it.

Thanks for all the advice from this forum. I looked at one that a implement dealer truck driver did some horse trading for while he was delivering a combine out of state. It is non-running junk at this point and he wants $3000 as it sits. Amazing what some folks think their stuff is worth!

With my first one I was looking for an Fcub to mow the new place with. I seen a int154 cub loboy w/3260 deck & 3pt hitch in the local bargain paper with a 60'' deck for $800 and it ran. The PO passed away and the engine was refreshed two years before. Once i seen it ran like a top i couldn't get it on the trailer fast enough. Now i'm rebuilding the 3260 mower deck, putting new bearings in the PTO and doing some rewiring. My second 154 purchase was $400 for a non runner. I removed the head and the honing stone cross hatch looks like it was just rebuilt too. The PTO pulley on the drive shaft wallowed out and they refreshed the engine figuring the noises were comming from the engine. This one is my ongoing FELBkhoe project that i hope to finish up soon. My third int154 w/creeper came with snowplow, wheel weights and chains for $1,700. The silicone on the engine gaskets is still clean since it was just refreshed also. I paid more than i wanted to but she sounds so good and runs awesome. It needs a little fixen here and there but i'm happy with it too. My point is if you wait like i did we can find the prices all over thye place. I'd rather have a decent tractor to start with and pay a tad more than get a clunker for mowing and plowing snow. Unless you have the time for a restoration.

I believe that IH went after the estates with the int154/185/184 series tractors. I think the well to do estate owners didn't want the farm tractor look. But the int154 can also do light duty farm work too. Its not a bad tractor as long as its maintained. I wouldn't hesitate to get another int154.

Swobee wrote:The plow is a single bottom w/ 3-point attachments. Almost looks home made or it was altered according to the photo he sent me, but can't tell for sure. A lot of welding on the plow framework that let's just say does not look factory.

Thanks for the haggling tips. I have been around the block a bit, but can always use some tips.

Due to the large size of farms out here, these weren't too popular and are not all that easy to find locally. I saw one at an auction last spring go for well over $4000 & I wouldn't have bid over $1800 for it. Needless to say, I didn't even get a bid in on it.

Thanks for all the advice from this forum. I looked at one that a implement dealer truck driver did some horse trading for while he was delivering a combine out of state. It is non-running junk at this point and he wants $3000 as it sits. Amazing what some folks think their stuff is worth!

Haggling is very important too you can save lots of $$ when we do it right. I never show my full wad of cash thats why i put a little in each pocket. Your right when people think they have gold. I find the non runners way over priced too. Make sure you check the frame were it goes from narrow to wide for cracks. I find the very abused 154's to have cracks in this area on the frame.

I use my 154 in the garden all the time, it has more limitations than an F Cub, but I rigged one of my drags solid mounted to the rockshaft and I can even go in reverse! It follows my 154 wherever it goes, pretty slick actually, the only chains are the ones that wrap it tite to my bars that go to the rockshaft.


Tom

I forgot to follow up with you guys. I did end up with the LoBoy and attachments. He wanted extra $$ for the implements but I got him talked into the whole enchilada with implements for a pinch under asking price. Now, about a month later, I just found a LoBoy with a belly mower mounted on it and a brand spanking new 48" snowblower attachment that has never been used for $800 less. That's about my usual luck!

I'll say one thing about these LoBoy's, they're mowing machines! Now, any advice for simple removal of the belly mower this fall so I can set the snow blade up? It looks to me that the mower or its frame will hit tires or otherwise be in the way after it's dropped. Short of levitating the tractor, what is an easy way to remove a belly mower? I thought of maybe making a ramp/platform of railroad ties and bridge planks. The planks would be in the middle of the platform & removable. I could drive on, remove the planks, drop the mower, reinstall the planks which would be above the mower now that it's sitting on the ground and drive off the assembly. Think this might work or is my head up my ---? Thanks

I always just pulled mine out the side. They are heavy.


Tom

Got any pictures of the 48" blower attachment?
The only blowers for these I know of is a 60" IH Model 50 blower and the McKee SnoLander. Both of these are beasts.

I also slide my mower out the side. I use a furniture mover under the back of the mower to give it wheels.