Loader question.

[welderskelter]

I want to build a loader for my 154. I dont like the high lift and the weight that most of the loaders I have seen offer. My loader will only probably lift high enough to load dirt into a pickup but its a small tractor, right? Anybody got some schematics or a good side pic of one that looks right? Thanks Harold

[Landreo]

I have a IHC loader on a 154. Reducing the lift height would not save much weight. Most of the weight appears to be in the arms and sub frame. Shrinking the arms may save a little weight but i expect less than 50 lbs. If the bucket and lift capacity was downsized then you could save both on the bucket weight, lift arms, and subframe. Rudi can point out the location of the loader manual for a general idea of construction. There are also sites with smaller loaders for cadet sized tractors which may help.

I like the idea of building your own loader, if you do please post construction photos.

BigBill was building a 154 loader/backhoe but I believe it is bigger than what you want.

[Eugene]

http://loz.craigslist.org/grd/3590916110.html

Bit over priced but there is a loader and back hoe included. Might contact the seller and see if he will sell the loader separately.

[gitractorman]

I think you're probably still looking at a standard loader for a Lo-boy. They really don't lift much higher than the sides of a pickup, when you account for the down angle on the bucket needed to dump the material from it. I think the lo-boy loader only lifts about 8-feet high, but you take about 2-feet of that away when you dump the bucket. Sides on a standard pickup are probably 5-feet high, so you only have about a foot of clearance. Also remember the geometry of a loader... the higher you lift, the further back over the hood the load is, so you need some arm reach just to be able to dump materials out in front of the tractor without hitting the hood. Just some thoughts..

[welderskelter]

I like that one Eugene. Its not as lengthy as most I have seen. I have saved that pic. Thanks

[ScottyD'sdad]

Lighter pipe based frame, like the Wagner, would reduce weight. Ed
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=77081

[BigBill]

I went looking for a tractor with a loader and got sticker shock at the new and used prices. I figure i could build it better for way less of the cost. My pics are in the photo section here under bigbill

I'm building my loader with no plans just off the top of my head with what i want it to be. I'm boxing the frame from the front to the rear and using tapered cut and welded channel for the arms. Right now i'm getting ready to do the rear subframe for the backhoe. The front axle needs to be upgraded or strengthened with power steering. I figure it would cost me around 30 to 40k for a new machine but this should run with all new hydraulics and free steel that have inhouse about 5k. Once i finish up my yrad work with it its going to sit and i have no payments on it.

used non running int154 tractor $400
used creeper tranny $375
New tires & rims 11.2x24 ags rear, 600-10 3 rib tires on front
New clutch, pressure plate
All new cylinders and control valves on hydraulics (ebay for control valves) & surplus center with hoses
Tubing for the hydraulics
New heavier front spindles
Power steering
Geared starter
Upgrade the clutch.

You need to do a lot of accurate drilling and reaming. I just picked up a rockwell BUX magnetic drill to make it much easier. Remember the rear subframe has to be removeable just incase the finals or tranny ever needsw work but not in my lifetime for sure. We do need access to do repairs if need be. My FEL arms are exactly the same length pin to pin. My uprites on the tractor for ther arms are exactly in the same position too.

My health has interupted my progress but it should be done this spring.

Last edited by BigBill on Mon Mar 11, 2013 2:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

[BigBill]

You could build a johnny bucket for the front??

[welderskelter]

Thanks Big Bill. I like the idea of building instead of buying a loader. A backhoe would be a lot of help too. Not sure the tractor frame can take it. Wish you would get some pics on here on yours. Thanks Harold

[BigBill]

I believe my pics are in the photo section here of my front subframe and loader arms. The rear subframe will be easy to do.

My updated pics are on the way let me know if you receive them. I used all thin walled 6" channel so far. Remember the strength is in the vertical position. Your stronger welds are the vertical ones too. I did not weld on the vertical part of the orginal frame too. I tac welded on the very top and bottom edges.

The 154 will do everything i need to do with no problems. My neighbor has a 147 cub cadet with a danco bucket and you should see what abuse they do with the bucket. They dig straight down into a hillside and remove bucket filled with dirt/rocks. They work this little tractor to its limits and she still runs and looks for more work. Seeing this i figure my 154 will do fine with no morgage sized payments on it.

[BigBill]

My pics were sent to you, did you get them??? What do you think of my plans?

[welderskelter]

Got em. I think it will work. I probably will build mine a bit smaller but it looks good. Sorry I didnt get back to you sooner. Thanks for the pics.

[BigBill]

Remember i'm using all thin walled channel. I boxed the front lifting arms from channel too.

[welderskelter]

BigBill. Where did you get your cylinders for your loader? Harold

[CharlieB]

Here is another one on CL

might get some ideas.....

http://louisville.craigslist.org/grd/3677262932.html



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Charles in KY