IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
Moderator: Team Cub
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
5 posts • Page 1 of 1
Dear reader's, I am preparing to replace the clutch in my 154. I am changing the clutch because the tractor will no longer move.....I write to ask what is the suggested way to do this job. Do I move the engine and go at it from the front or remove the rear end section and go at the clutch from the back? Also what are the suggested parts to replace...Should I change the drive shaft while I am in there??? Should I put new springs in pressure plate or replace ????? Should I replace the trani fly wheel or can I get it re-surfaced... How about the throw out bearing ??? Thanks in advance love to hear from someone who knows
I dont think you should be so fast at changing the clutch just because it wont move. I would check for free travel first. Should be about an inch on the pedal. If you have to replace the clutch. Take off both side plates , the tunnel and you shouldnt have any trouble getting at it from below. If you are not real mechanical minded then a repair manual would be a good investment.
154 Cub loboy
Int. 15 Tiller
7ft. 3 point mounted adjustable blade
60 in Kub Klipper mower.
Yea, I was thinking the same thing. I'd also check the bolt that goes through the drive shaft at the transmission. Very well known to shear off (especially if someone puts one in it from a hardware store instead of buying the right one from a dealer). Could be as simple as replacing a bolt!
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
I think starting with a manual would be a great benefit to you. I purchased the service manual from binder books and have found it very beneficial.
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
The clutch can be removed sitting on a stool, no need to do anything with the rear. Early 154s needed to move the engine forward a few inches, later 154s did not have to have the engine removed. Search the forum for more complete instructions but should take 30 minutes or so to remove and replace if the bolts are not stuck. I do not resurface the driven disc but just clean with sandpaper. Check the throwout bearing and grease if needed by working grease into the balls, also check the wobble of the driven disc in case the input shaft is worn.
5 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests