IH CUB LoBoy Series - 154, 184, 185 Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your LoBoy related issues.
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Is there a set up to be able to run both a belly mower (3260) and a 3 point hitch at the same time? Mine has the belly mower on her and seems to have parts of the 3 point on it, but it looks like it will hit the mower pulley on the PTO.
It should not hit the pulley, the rockshaft will not go down low enough to hit the pulley. Yours should look something like this.
In this photo, the upper rockshaft is in place, but the rest of the 3-point hitch is missing. I don't have any photos, but I know that I did lower the rockshaft all the way, and it did not hit the drive pulley.
1951 Farmall Cub, Cub Cadets 102, 104, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
You need to operate either the belly mower or the 3 point hitch, one at a time. Locking either one out, depending on which system you want to operate. Otherwise operating both at the same time really slows their action down.
I own a 154 with the 3260 belly mower and 3 point hitch. The 3 point hitch does not contact the pto mower pulley. Stay chains are used to keep the 3 point arms from swinging in to far to contact the pulley.
There are several different methods of controlling the hydraulic systems for the 154. Some 154's have a diverter valve (or perhaps two diverter valves) on the panel in front and below the seat. Other 154's have a lock out bar on the 3 point and lock out stops for the center hydraulic cylinder.
I have an excuse. CRS.
The side or lift arms will not hit if chained but you can't use your top link because it will hit
1ST corinthians 1:18
I have a 184 with a 3160A mower deck and a 3-point hitch. If I put the PTO belt guards on, the top (third) link contacts the guards when I lower the 3-point implement. With the top guard off, I usually do not have any issue with it.
Note: the belt does come very close to the lower left arm. Occasionally the belt does touch the arm and has worn the paint and a little metal away.
I now keep a trailer mover on the 3-point hitch.
1) The trailer mover keeps the lower arms spread apart to minimize belt contact
2) The trailer mover weighs enough that the mower deck lifts up first so I don't have to lock out the 3-point hitch.
3) I can easily move trailers without dismounting when mowing.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/c ... iler-mover
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH Model 15 Tiller
I agree with Slickwilly, the biggest issue is the top link hitting the pulley even with the guard off. My friends 184 runs a Woods deck and that top pulley definitely has an interference issue with the top link. That looks to be the case in your pic as well. gitractormans setup looks a bit different and his pulley appears a little smaller, although it may just be the angle of the pic. In your pic the pulley appears larger than standard as well. If your pulley is the standard size then that "Trailer Mover" item may be a way around the problem as long as it keeps the top link clear of the pulley, I'd keep a close eye on it. ...and a splitter/diverter valve is a real nice option.
You'll need mostly the pieces on the bottom of the below pic besides the rock shaft, lift arms, and lift links for the rest of your 3 point. Lots of parts is a pretty confined area and will replace those J bars for the rear mower support. gitractormans pic shows how the mower support arms attach to the 3 point bracket/mule drive set up. Hamilton Bob usually has those parts available. The lift arms in my pic are cat1 cheapies from TSC and are longer that what the Lowboy 3 point would come with.
I run a scraper blade on my 154 with the PTO pulley still on it and the top link does not hit the pulley. However I think it would depend on the attachment you were using and maybe even the brand of toplink because the toplink is really close to the pulley when my blade is down. I purchased the toplink from Hamilton Bob's.
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