Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:17 am

As noted yesterday I received a hydraulic top-link, diverter valve, hoses & fittings for Christmas. I though it would be more useful and searchable if I gave it a better more descriptive title.

The following outlines my installation of Agri Supply's Cat 1 hydraulic top link, the rest of the supplies were sourced thru Surplus Center online.

Parts:
1 2" bore x 8" stroke Cat 1 Hydraulic Top Link
1 3/8" NPT 20 GPM PRINCE SELECTOR VALVE
1 9-6506-6-6 JIC 6F TO 3/8 NPTF SWIVEL
1 9-2404-6-6 JIC 6M x 3/8 NPTM CONNECTOR
1 903-3872 3/8" X 72" 3/8 NPTM X 3/8 NPTM 3000 PSI HYD HOSE
1 903-3824 3/8" X 24" 3/8 NPTM X 3/8 NPTM 3000 PSI HYD HOSE
1 9-7381-F FEMALE QUICK COUPLER
1 9-6347-A 3/8" MALE TIP S41-3
2 9-6806-8-6 SAE 8M x 3/8" NPTM 90 ELBOW

(Not Used - Optional Return)
1 903-3848 3/8" X 48" 3/8 NPTM X 3/8 NPTM 3000 PSI HYD HOSE
1 9-5605-6-6-6 3/8 X 3/8 X 3/8 NPTF TEE
1 9-5502-6-6 3/8 NPTM to 3/8 NPTF 90 ELBOW
2 9-4404-6-6 3/8 HOSEBARB TO 3/8 NPTM ADAPTER 4404-6-6
1 9-7381-F FEMALE QUICK COUPLER
1 9-6347-A 3/8" MALE TIP S41-3

Parts.jpg

Valve Parts.jpg
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Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:23 am

Like most projects good planning makes for good results. I sketched up a bunch of different hydraulic circuits options before choosing this one. The plan was relatively simple, remove the existing hydraulic line from the factory "T" and install a diverter valve. This would allow me to use the factory lift-lower valve to control either the 3 point lift or the top link. Little side note, I have a belly connection which dead-ends at a quick disconnect, If I had a belly cylinder it would not be effected by the selection of the diverter valve as the valve is placed after the "T" in the system.

Finding a home for the diverter valve was the hardest part of the project. There is limited space & lots of moving parts in the tunnel. I would have loved to have mounted the valve in the factory location however the 24" supply hose limited my mounting options. In the end I'm happy with it's final location.

1 TEE CONNECTION.jpg


2 VALVE HOSE.jpg


3 VALVE MOUNT.jpg
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Last edited by LFEngineering on Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:49 am

Up to this point the instillation had go exactly to plan, eager to test it out I decided to skip the return line installation and give it a shot. The system worked as expected; push the diverter valve down and lever controls the 3 point. Pull the valve up, the 3 point locks in position and the lever controls the top-link.

Inadvertently this eager testing proved to be very insightful. It seems the multi-hitch and forks by themselves don't have enough weight to extend the top-link. I believe this is part due in fact to the top-link having new tight seals and because it was originally designed as a dual action cylinder. 10-20 lbs at the end of the forks and the top-link extends no problem. This got me thinking; I decided to extend the top-link all the way and re-install the steel plug on the cap side of the top-link cylinder. This creates an "air spring" effect which extends the top-link when "lowered".

Now if you've been paying attention you may be wondering what this return line was all about. Since I didn't intend on using a plug on the cap side of the top-link I needed a place for the cylinder to vent while keeping contaminates out. I also designed the system for a seal failure, if the top-link seals leaked or blew-out the oil would by-pass and dump back into the tank / transmission. The return line would have been spliced into the soft return hose in the tunnel. I may still install the return line and just not connect it to the top-link. That way if I want to hook up some other hydraulic accessory I have pressure & return quick disconnects available.

4 REAR CYL.jpg


5 INSTALLED.jpg
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Last edited by LFEngineering on Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:58 am, edited 2 times in total.

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:50 am

Lastly, a video of it in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-visaVE3E58&feature=youtu.be

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:54 am

Excellent!!! Well done pics, video and narrative.

Bill

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Dec 27, 2013 8:00 pm

Very neat, clean installation. Your planning paid off!!

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Jan 09, 2015 8:23 am

Reviving an old post... great work! Clean install. And I like the home shop space - I see a bench top lathe and what looks like a horizontal mill in the last photo.

I have been thinking of doing something similar with my tractor. My 154 has a belly cylinder and therefore already has a diverter valve. I wonder if I could achieve the same thing by adding a quick disconnect on the second output of the diverter (the "first" output controls the 3PH). Then add mating quick disconnects on both a hydraulic top link and the belly cylinder so that I could swap between the two depending on the season and usage of the tractor. Just from memory the belly cylinder appears to be similar bore and stroke to the top link you used so the fluid volume should be in the same ballpark (but I could be remembering wrong...). As long as the lines stay primed with fluid I would think the fluid level in the transmission shouldn't move much.

Do you have any estimate on lifting/engaging capacity of the 3PH? I've searched a bit but can't find anything quantifying it.

Thanks in advance. This could be huge!

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Mon Jan 19, 2015 7:43 am

Roughly 750lbs IIRC.

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:07 pm

My 3pt is weak I changed the fluid back in December i don't know if the diverter valve needs the o-rings replaced or does the cylinder need work or is it the valve block under the tank. I know the front cylinder is strong will pick up the plow and my neighbor who was standing on it, so the pump is good. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. T

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:09 pm

My 3pt is weak I changed the fluid back in December i don't know if the diverter valve needs the o-rings replaced or does the cylinder need work or is it the valve block under the tank. I know the front cylinder is strong will pick up the plow and my neighbor who was standing on it, so the pump is good. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I really like the set up and your back bucket really cool!

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:36 am

I can't say for sure because I don't have a front cylinder, but the linkage to plow could be giving it some mechanical advantage so I wouldn't necessarily compare the two.
You best bet would be to pick up a pressure gauge and test the system.

I was fortunate enough that somebody had installed quick disconnect fittings at both the belly & rear cylinders so I picked up a 0-3000 psi pressure gauge from McMaster (p/n: 3845K1), a 12" section of high pressure hose, and the matching quick disconnect fitting. Now I can snap it into either cylinder QD and get system pressure reading after the relief circuit. The lo-boy system should be in the 1500-1600 psi range.

Just thinking off the top of my head; if the cylinder seal was bad you'd be leaking fluid all over the place. Also if the diverted valve seals were bad you might see both cylinders moving at the same time. My guess is it's either the control valve /relief circuit pressure or the actual limit of the 3pt.

Re: Hydraulic Top-Link Installation w/ Diverter Valve

Tue Apr 14, 2015 4:03 pm

How's your hydraulic filter? It could hinder the flow.