Dead 184

[Dsc1]

Hay, haven't been around for a while but my 184 has been a dream for the last few seasons until today. I jumped on it to mow before it starts raining today, 2nd gear type of day and I have nothing. No juice, like I unhooked the battery. I already checked the battery and all connections I can get to. Pulled the side tin and hood, popped the ignition switch to make sure it wasn't corroded but I can't get to the solenoid . Evidently the gentleman that had it before me put 5/16 bolts in the top 2 holes on the dash and I can't remove them. For you guys that no more than me,I'm thinking the solenoid because of everything not having juice but how do you get to it. Oh ya, is the hood rubber for the gas tank hole available . Dan

[Dsc1]

Well I dug further and I have juice through the clutch switch into and through the ignition switch and I did get the dash loose but can't get the wheel off yet.i did check the starter with my cables and it's fine. Even if I turn the key on I still can't get the oil light . I suppose the magnetic switch (solenoid) is under the dash somewhere? Any ideas. Thanks. Dan

[Eugene]

I used the same pulley puller to remove the standard Cub's front pulley to remove the steering wheel.

If the 184's wiring is similar to the 154, the solenoid is located below the dash cowling and on the right side.

[Dsc1]

Thanks for the response . I kinda had an idea it was there after following the cable. My luck. Thanks. Does that sound like it might be it, not getting juice to anything on one of these Cubs ? Dan

[Eugene]

If the solenoid is bad you still should have power to the lights. There is a fuse in the line from the amp gauge to the light switch. However, the electrical power for everything comes off of the solenoid terminal where the cable from the battery ends.

There is a wiring diagram in the parts manual.

Only thing I can suggest is to start testing. If you are not getting voltage to the lights or the fuse in the lighting circuit - start by checking the battery terminals and battery cables.

[Dsc1]

Thanks Eugene,I slept on it last night and it should be a bad connection at the solenoid or it could be the PTO safety switch if I'm looking at that right. If the tractor thought it was still in gaged it would kill it ,correct ? That's all that's left unless it has a bad wire. Going to round up a puller today so I can get behind the dash and see what's going on. Yes ,the first thing I did was to check the battery and fuses. Thanks again Dan

[outdoors4evr]

You are correct. If the tractor thinks the PTO is engaged, the tractor won't start, though your oil light should still illuminate.

You said that you have already checked the clutch safety switch. This switch does not keep the oil light from illuminating. That safety switch often backs out just enough to not engage the switch.

Best bet is to check the key connections and the ammeter connections.
Also check the battery ground cable connection.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

DSC1, I am not very familiar with a 184, but have a couple questions. do you have a rest light or voltmeter to check for voltage? do the head or tail lights work, and do they show on the ammeter? the diagram Oudoors4evr posted helped a lot, but the engineers did not complete it, there is no connection between the + side of the ammeter (charge indicator) and the battery. I suggest using a test light or a voltmeter, with one lead on the frame (not the battery), and start at the battery moving forward till you see where you lose voltage.

Time for me to get away from the computer. I tried to move the cursor down the screen to the paper laying on my desk to show you what I was talking about.

[Eugene]

the diagram Oudoors4evr posted helped a lot, but the engineers did not complete it.

My parts and service manuals for numbered Cubs, both show the same wiring diagram for the 184, but slightly different than the one posted earlier in this topic.

[Dsc1]

That was funny John, I had been using a test light and just going off the illumination of the bulb if you know what I mean. So far with the key on I have juice through the ignition, clutch switch but nothing on the dash, oil light,amp gauge ,lights and it won't start by jumping the starter with a cable.it turns over but won't fire, no juice to the points. As bad as it is outside I will probably try and pull the wheel tomorrow and get in the dash. Is there a way to jump past the PTO to see if it's that. Hopefully I find a loose or bad wire. Thanks again everyone. I called Bobs today to see if he had parts.i should have known , He has everything. Dan

[gitractorman]

Double check that you have a good ground. I had a 154 with the same issue. The battery ground had come loose and corroded over the winter. put a new battery ground cable on and it came right to life. Unfortunately, the battery on these tractors is grounded way back on the fender where the battery is. Because of this, if that ground is bad, nothing will work. Also, check your cables, both ground and positive. I had a Cub Cadet that showed 12-volts at the starter, but the key wouldnt do anything. Turned out the positive battery cable was bare under the engine, and the amperage drop was so much that it would just ground out as soon as you turned the key.

This spring, another tricky thing happened on the same Cub Cadet. Battery showed 12 volts, but turn the key and nothing, no lights, nothin. Played with it a little more and battery showed 12 volts with key off. Turn the key just to the ON position, and battery voltage dropped to 5 volts. Hmm.. Turn the key to Start, and the voltage at the battery dropped to 0.6 volts..... Turn the key back to Off, voltage at the battery showed 12 volts. Took the battery in to NAPA and they couldn't even load test it. As soon as they put any load on the battery it showed that the machine was disconnected. They said it was probably a loose plate in the battery. Anyway, $85 later and she's starting and running like a dream.

I hate tractor electrical systems!!!!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

DsC1, in the middle of the diagram you will see what is either a terminal strip or plug, not familiar with a 184, so I do not know what that block represents, but that sounds like a starting place. Everything that is not working passes through it.

[Eugene]

Before you get two wrapped up in this wiring diagram, take a look at the one in the parts or service manual. The wiring diagram in the parts manual, the battery feed from the left side of the magnetic switch, the solenoid, goes to the amp gauge. A more logical method of wiring the tractor - my opinion.

In the wiring diagram posted with this topic, the battery feed, left side of the solenoid, traces to the alternator's excite terminal, then out the alternator to the amp gauge. As shown in the wiring diagram, this would leave the alternator "ON", in the excite mode all the time.

At this point, I don't know. Years ago when I rewired my 154, at that time owned by a neighbor, I found the correct wiring diagram for the tractor on line.